{"id":6210,"date":"2015-11-29T20:45:10","date_gmt":"2015-11-29T20:45:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=6210"},"modified":"2015-11-29T20:45:10","modified_gmt":"2015-11-29T20:45:10","slug":"parslied-cod-savory-potatoes-garlicanchovy-cauliflower","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=6210","title":{"rendered":"parslied cod; savory potatoes; garlic\/anchovy cauliflower"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/11\/cod_new_potatoes_cauliflower.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6216\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/11\/cod_new_potatoes_cauliflower.jpg\" alt=\"cod_new_potatoes_cauliflower\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>looks a bit\u00a0like mashed potatoes, but I actually don&#8217;t do mashed potatoes<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>..and this\u00a0was so much better.<\/p>\n<p>The cod was from Captain Phil himself, whom I had manager to catch at his family&#8217;s fish stall in the Union Square Greenmarket where I headed minutes after our train arrived at Grand Central from our wonderful,\u00a0not-so-very-upstate Thanksgiving break.<\/p>\n<p>It was 3:17 when I arrived, pretty late in the day for the market, even for me. \u00a0I hadn&#8217;t gone out looking for\u00a0seafood, but\u00a0in pursuit of a\u00a0vegetable to accompany a dinner of smoked freshwater trout, already resting in the refrigerator.\u00a0The plan\u00a0was to enjoy some good German wine on a Saturday evening. I was only going to\u00a0I\u00a0say hello to <a href=\"http:\/\/www.sagemagazine.org\/scratch-the-salmon-ill-have-the-fluke\/\">the Karlins and their fish<\/a>, but then I saw that\u00a0they still had some gorgeous specimens remaining,\u00a0and I also spotted the fisherman himself, on one of his rare appearances in the city.<\/p>\n<p>I love cod. \u00a0I bought some cod.<\/p>\n<p>I also\u00a0like cauliflower very much, agreeing with\u00a0Pliny the Elder, a naturalist, who (before he had died in the eruption of Vesuvius, had also\u00a0managed to learn a\u00a0thing or two about seafood, including cod, with which he may have become acquainted through Romano Britain contacts) wrote, &#8220;<em>Ex omnibus brassicae generibus suavissima est cyma<\/em>&#8220;\/&#8221;The most pleasant tasting of all cabbages is the [young cabbage sprout]&#8221;\u00a0\u00a0I don&#8217;t know what I was thinking when, also yesterday, I came across two small, perfect green specimens, perfectly, tenderly embraced by\u00a0their outer leaves, but\u00a0only took home one of them.<\/p>\n<p>Once I was putting the meal together, I realized that, since our modest table\u00a0wasn&#8217;t inside a fancy\u00a0<em>boite,\u00a0<\/em>even if I included\u00a0all of the perfectly edible leaves and the upper stem, my little <em>Brassica<\/em> bud\u00a0probably wouldn&#8217;t be\u00a0enough vegetable for both of us.\u00a0Maybe a garnish, but not really a proper &#8216;side&#8217;.<\/p>\n<p>My solution was to dip into the paper bags where the boiling potatoes hid out. \u00a0There weren&#8217;t\u00a0enough red &#8216;new&#8217; potatoes (which I felt I should sacrifice before they grew into &#8216;old&#8217;), so I added to the pot a few yellowish\u00a0<em>Kart\u00f6ffelchen<\/em>\u00a0I had picked up that day.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>an almost perfect one-pound rectangle cut from a cod fillet, from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood, brought to room temperature, divided into two equal pieces and seasoned with salt on both sides, the top (the former skin side) brushed with a little French\u00a0dijon mustard which had been mixed with a very small amount of\u00a0water to make it easier to spread (on that side alone), the\u00a0pieces\u00a0dipped in a mixture of the very last of\u00a0my current stash of homemade breadcrumbs mixed with some\u00a0finely-chopped parsley from Paffenroth Farms, then after a few crumbs were sprinkled on the other, open flesh side mostly for appearances, browned briefly, but only on the mustard and breadcrumb mix side, in a little olive oil inside a tin-lined copper <em>au gratin<\/em> pan, transferred to a 325\u00ba oven and cooked until the fish began\u00a0to flake (about 8 or 9 minutes) [the recipe is based on Thomas Keller&#8217;s &#8216;Wild Cod <em>en Persillade<\/em>&#8216;]<\/li>\n<li>one clove of garlic heated until pungent in a cast iron pan, over medium-low heat, then one rinsed, and filleted salt-packed anchovy\u00a0stirred in until it &#8216;melted&#8217;, followed by the addition of some crushed dried peperoncino,\u00a0one small Italian green cauliflower, or <em><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Broccoflower\">broccoflower<\/a><\/em>, from Stokes Farm, separated into florettes, the top, or tender part of the stem sliced thinly, cooked until the vegetable had almost softened, and\u00a0finally\u00a0the outer leaves (which had been cut into one or two-inch sections), added, and the mix cooked for another two minutes<\/li>\n<li>three\u00a0small oval red (inside and out) potatoes from Lucky Dog Organic Farm, and four small round yellow (inside)\u00a0German Butterball potatoes from Berried Treasures,\u00a0boiled in salted water inside one of my old glass <a href=\"http:\/\/www.ebay.com\/itm\/VIntage-Pyrex-6-Piece-Blue-Tint-Flameware-Stovetop-Pans-Removeable-Handles-\/111577304599\">pots<\/a>, drained and dried in the still-warm pot, rolled in a little olive oil, and sprinkled with\u00a0chopped winter savory from Stokes Farm and chopped parsley from Paffenroth Farms<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Spanish (Rueda) white, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.bodegasnaia.com\/naia-2010-en\">Naia D.O. Rueda 2014<\/a>,\u00a0from Verdejo old vines<\/li>\n<li>the music was\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/1986\/04\/20\/arts\/new-life-for-a-small-schubertian-gem.html\">Schubert&#8217;s &#8216;Rosamunde, F\u00fcrstin von Cypern, incidental music\u00a0to Helmina von Ch\u00e9zy&#8217;s Play&#8217;<\/a>, D. 797 (Op. 26), performed by the Gewandhausorchester Leipzig, conducted by\u00a0Kurt Mazur, with Elly Ameling and the Rundfunkchor Leipzig<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>looks a bit\u00a0like mashed potatoes, but I actually don&#8217;t do mashed potatoes &nbsp; ..and this\u00a0was so much better. The cod was from Captain Phil himself, whom I had manager to catch at his family&#8217;s fish stall in the Union Square Greenmarket where I headed minutes after our train arrived at Grand Central from our wonderful,\u00a0not-so-very-upstate &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6210","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6210","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6210"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6210\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6210"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6210"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6210"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}