{"id":5730,"date":"2015-10-23T01:26:36","date_gmt":"2015-10-23T01:26:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=5730"},"modified":"2015-10-23T01:26:36","modified_gmt":"2015-10-23T01:26:36","slug":"oysters-pea-crab-swordfish-tomato-radish-greens","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=5730","title":{"rendered":"oysters, pea crab; swordfish, tomato, radish greens"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/13_wild_oysters.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5733\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/13_wild_oysters.jpg\" alt=\"13_wild_oysters\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Because I already had enough vegetables on hand already, almost my only\u00a0purpose in heading for the Union Square Greenmarket that day was to secure a seafood entr\u00e9e for dinner. \u00a0It had only occurred to me\u00a0to also pick up oysters because, while still abed, I had seen the Blue Moon Fish Company retweet of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/YouCanCookThis\/status\/654669019023171585\">a tweet\u00a0about their wild oysters<\/a>. It\u00a0included\u00a0a link to an article in the Village Voice featuring\u00a0both wild oysters and Blue Moon family anchor, Stephanie Villani, and I thought, what the heck&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Only later did we add an embellishment, in the form of a\u00a0&#8216;theme&#8217;: \u00a0Barry had suggested that I bring home\u00a0two dozen, which would make\u00a0it something of\u00a0special event, so we looked around for an\u00a0occasion, or excuse, for\u00a0a\u00a0mid-week oyster feast, perhaps a birthday or anniversary, something at least a little splendid. He suggested we consider it\u00a0in honor of <a href=\"https:\/\/en.m.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Solomon_R._Guggenheim_Museum\">the Guggenheim Museum<\/a> first opening its doors on that day and month in 1959, ten years after the death of its patron, Solomon R. Guggenheim, and six months after the death of its architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, and I thought, why not?<\/p>\n<p>It turned out\u00a0that we had a tiny bonus inside the\u00a0bag I brought home. \u00a0It was the first time in 50 years of consuming oysters (and often opening\u00a0them myself),\u00a0that I came across what turned out to be an additional,\u00a0distantly-related shellfish species crouched up inside one of the\u00a0bivalves. \u00a0It was only when I looked very closely at what I\u00a0had removed from it\u00a0while it lay on my large oval plate (you can actually see it inside the top center oyster in the picture), that I noticed it was moving; it looked like a very tiny, perfectly formed, translucent crab <strong>(see the image at the bottom)<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>Thanks to\u00a0the internet gods\u00a0I learned\u00a0almost immediately that what I had in front of me\u00a0was an &#8216;oyster crab&#8217;, also called a &#8220;pea crab&#8217;. \u00a0At almost the same moment I also learned that it was common (or <em>uncommon<\/em>) enough to be considered a delicacy by those who know and observe such things, for instance in <a href=\"http:\/\/www.delmarvanow.com\/story\/life\/2014\/11\/02\/oyster-crab-zaops\/18380395\/\">Delmarva<\/a>,\u00a0and on the far end of <a href=\"http:\/\/06880danwoog.com\/2014\/07\/06\/oyster-crabs-yummmm-or-yecccch\/\">Long Island<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>So I slurped it down, but not without a tentative chew. \u00a0I figured that if I had the nerve to eat raw oysters, how was a tiny crab going to be a problem?<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>a dozen\u00a0wild &#8216;Robin&#8217;s\u00a0Island\u00a0Oysters\u2019 (Long Island Sound) <a href=\"http:\/\/www.villagevoice.com\/restaurants\/briny-sweet-wild-oysters-are-at-the-market-this-week-7770027\">from Blue Moon Seafood<\/a>\u00a0for each of us,\u00a0shelled, served on the half shell (plus one pea crab for me) without any accompaniment except some wonderful <a href=\"http:\/\/www.mariofongo.com\/eng\/grissini-stirati\/with-wholemeal-flour\">Mario Fongo grissini integrale<\/a> from Buon Italia<\/li>\n<li>the wine with the oysters (and the oyster crab) was a California (Napa) white, California white, in a Burgundy style,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/matt-iaconis-chardonnay-napa-valley-2014.htm\">Matthew Iaconis Napa Valley Chardonnay 2014<\/a>\u00a0(it\u2019s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=EwGF89gKY5U\">Matt\u2019s<\/a>\u00a0wine,\u00a0and it comes from <a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/\">Naked Wines<\/a>)<\/li>\n<li>the music with the oysters was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/J-S-Bach-Well-Tempered-Clavier-Complete\/dp\/B000G8NVZC\">Johann Sebastian\u00a0Bach&#8217;s, &#8216;The Well-Tempered Clavier I, Preludes and Fugues Book\u00a01&#8217;,\u00a0Mieczyslaw Horszowski, piano<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/swordfish_tomato_radish_greens1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5751\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/swordfish_tomato_radish_greens1.jpg\" alt=\"swordfish_tomato_radish_greens\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The swordfish was actually my fourth choice as an entr\u00e9e to follow the oysters, the John Dory, Tautog (Blackfish), and Boston mackerel all having sold out by the time I arrived at the Blue Moon Greenmarket stall\u00a0at about 11:45, which was earlier than usual, I have to say. \u00a0Because of both the time and effort I expected we might spend on the bivalves, and it\u00a0being a &#8216;school night&#8217;, I wanted the preparation of the second course to\u00a0be both fast and relatively uncomplicated. \u00a0The choice of the vegetables would follow suit.<\/p>\n<p>The fish was absolutely delicious. How to account for its excellence when the only real difference between this outing with this recipe and previous ones was the combination of herbs? \u00a0Or their numbers? \u00a0What I choose\u00a0is usually very much determined by what I have on hand, and therefor might never be repeated. \u00a0But then I&#8217;m almost obsessed with\u00a0herbs, and there seems to me to be almost nothing that can be done wrong with them.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one swordfish steak from Blue Moon\u00a0Seafood, cut into two six-and-a-half ounce pieces, rubbed with a mixture of fresh herbs (here lovage, tarragon, dill flowers, peppermint, parsley, thyme, and rosemary, all from various Greenmarket farmers) chopped together with sea salt, then mixed with\u00a0some freshly-ground pepper, minced garlic and lemon zest, and a bit of olive oil to moisten the herb mix, spread onto the surface of the fish before it was\u00a0pan-grilled and basted throughout the cooking process with some of the reserved rub mixture, finished with a squeeze of lemon,\u00a0and a drizzle of olive oil, served with eighths of lemon<\/li>\n<li>a mix of tomatoes (including three small heirlooms and\u00a0two small San Marzano from Berried Treasures Farm), each sliced in half, placed face down on a plate which had been spread with salt and pepper, then dried somewhat with a paper towel and\u00a0placed in a hot grill pan, turned once, removed, finished\u00a0with a bit of olive oil, a few drops of white balsamic vinegar, and torn basil leaves from a\u00a0basil\u00a0plant (Full Bloom Marker Garden, in Whately, western Massachusetts) from\u00a0Whole\u00a0Foods<\/li>\n<li>a very small bunch of radish greens from\u00a0Norwich Meadows Farm, wilted in\u00a0olive oil in which a small garlic clove, also from Norwich Meadows Farm,\u00a0had been allowed to sweat for a bit, then seasoned with salt, pepper, and a bit more olive oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine with the swordfish was a beautiful and\u00a0quite\u00a0unusual Spanish (Catalonia) white, Elvi\/LV Wines\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/en.elviwines.com\/white-wine\/-\/invita-2014_r_20.aspx\">In Vita Alella 2011<\/a>, with\u00a0Pansa Blanca (Xarel-lo) and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, carried home this week from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.shop.appellationnyc.com\/r\/products\/10556612\/elvi-wines-in-vita-2011\">Appellation Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music with the entr\u00e9e was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.allmusic.com\/album\/mozart-piano-concertos-18-k456-19-k459-mw0002698068\">Mitsuko Uchida and the Cleveland Orchestra performing Mozart&#8217;s\u00a0Piano Concerto No. 18 in B flat major, K456<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/oyster_crab1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5752\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/10\/oyster_crab1.jpg\" alt=\"oyster_crab\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>one oyster crab, coming up (note that the inside width\u00a0of the bowl is only 2 3\/8 inches, or 6 centimeters)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Because I already had enough vegetables on hand already, almost my only\u00a0purpose in heading for the Union Square Greenmarket that day was to secure a seafood entr\u00e9e for dinner. \u00a0It had only occurred to me\u00a0to also pick up oysters because, while still abed, I had seen the Blue Moon Fish Company retweet of\u00a0a tweet\u00a0about their &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5730","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5730","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5730"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5730\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5730"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5730"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5730"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}