{"id":4942,"date":"2015-08-13T01:08:50","date_gmt":"2015-08-13T01:08:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=4942"},"modified":"2015-08-13T01:08:50","modified_gmt":"2015-08-13T01:08:50","slug":"lamb-with-ramp-fruit-artichoke-olive-tomato-saute","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=4942","title":{"rendered":"lamb with ramp fruit; artichoke-olive-tomato saut\u00e9"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/artichoke_olive_tomato_saute.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4960\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/artichoke_olive_tomato_saute.jpg\" alt=\"artichoke_olive_tomato_saute\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/artichoke_saute_2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4961\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/artichoke_saute_2.jpg\" alt=\"artichoke_saute_2\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/lamb_chop_artichoke_saute.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4962\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/lamb_chop_artichoke_saute.jpg\" alt=\"lamb_chop_artichoke_saute\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The images above show two stages of the\u00a0vegetable saut\u00e9 process, and as it was served with the lamb.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Better than ever, thanks to ramp fruit.<\/p>\n<p>The two lamb chops we had last night were the second of two pairs inside\u00a0a single package I had brought home frozen from the Greenmarket over two\u00a0weeks back. \u00a0I defrosted the first two overnight and\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2015\/07\/27\/lamb-chops-with-sorrel-butter-okra-heirlooms\/\">prepared\u00a0them<\/a>\u00a0the next day, finishing with a little sliced shallot and some sorrel butter. At the time I thought lamb chops do not come any better, but the treatment I gave the second pair yesterday (again, defrosted overnight) may have excelled them.<\/p>\n<p>The reason lies in one simple ingredient: <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/\">ramp fruit<\/a>, my favorite new thing, and one which is making its\u00a0appearance just when I had decided the spring ramp craze had gotten totally out of hand.<\/p>\n<p>The fruit were displayed on long stems in Franca&#8217;s Berried Treasures stall at the Greenmarket this past\u00a0Friday; \u00a0they were new, and I had no idea what they were. \u00a0Her hand-lettered sign didn&#8217;t help much , since someone on the farm had put\u00a0the wrong one in the truck that day. \u00a0There was still a good chance I was going to take some\u00a0home, even before Franca said something about ramp buds, or maybe it was ramp capers, adding, when someone else asked what to do with them, that we should think of them as garlic.<\/p>\n<p>I was now sold. totally.<\/p>\n<p>On Tuesday I still had some &#8216;buds&#8217; remaining from that same\u00a0bunch (&#8216;bouquet&#8217;), even though I had been using some in virtually every meal I&#8217;d prepared since. \u00a0Last night I snipped off another small amount of <a href=\"https:\/\/hikinginthesmokies.files.wordpress.com\/2013\/10\/allium-burdickii-fruit-gunter-fork-trail-july-31-2013.jpg\">fruit<\/a> from the end of\u00a0their long dry stems and I did little more than gently heat them in a small tin-lined copper pan (recently acquired from a sidewalk vender, and\u00a0becoming increasingly indispensable to\u00a0my\u00a0kitchen\u00a0operations. \u00a0The tiny\u00a0fruits gave up a terrific aroma and ended up on top of the pan-grilled chops. The meat had been\u00a0seasoned with salt and pepper, but I did noting else to it squeeze a bit of lemon and a drizzle some olive oil over it. \u00a0It\u00a0was terrific, the taste of the excellent lamb had grown a little garlicky and subtly floral.<\/p>\n<p>I picked\u00a0the superb\u00a0vegetable <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2008\/06\/04\/dining\/04mini.html?_r=0\">recipe<\/a> [from Mark Bittman] that accompanied the lamb\u00a0as a way to use 12\u00a0of the smallest of artichokes which I could fine\u00a0in the Greenmarket on Monday. \u00a0I had selected\u00a0them from a basket containing both them\u00a0and some a bit larger, because I had thought a\u00a0diminutive size would make it\u00a0unnecessary to perform any serious operations involving\u00a0pulling off petals, slicing off ends and\u00a0tops, or removing hairy chokes.<\/p>\n<p>The <em>au naturel<\/em> route\u00a0worked for me, but then I&#8217;m someone who always eats grape pits, usually skins of all kinds, and occasionally even peanut shells. Barry preferred to remove the outermost leaves before consuming the rest of the artichoke and its\u00a0companion\u00a0vegetables, so next time I\u00a0really should bring home more artichokes, and allow myself a few more minutes of preparation time.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>two thick loin lamb chops from 3-Corner Field Farm, thoroughly dried, cooked on a very hot grill pan for about 4\u00a0minutes on each side, seasoned after both\u00a0had been seared, removed from the pan and each topped\u00a0with about 8\u00a0slightly-crushed\u00a0ramp fruit from Berried Treasures, the &#8216;buds&#8217; having been\u00a0heated earlier\u00a0in\u00a0a bit of olive oil, the chops finished with a squeeze of lemon and a drizzle of olive oil<\/li>\n<li>I followed the vegetable saut\u00e9 recipe, which appears on the Times site\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2008\/06\/04\/dining\/04mini.html?_r=0\">here<\/a>, pretty closely, using thyme from Keith&#8217;s Farm for one of Bittman&#8217;s\u00a0alternatives in its first stage\u00a0(rosemary being the other), but I substituted tarragon from Stokes Farm for the parsley he\u00a0specifies for the\u00a0garnish at the very end (because I love tarragon, and because it seemed Proven\u00e7al, although mint would also have worked very well); \u00a0the walnut-size artichokes were from Norwich Meadows Farm; the garlic was from Phillips Farm; the oil-cured black olives were from Buon Italia; the heirloom tomatoes were from Norwich Meadows Farm; and the tarragon came from Stokes Farm<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a French\u00a0red,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/all\/chateau-valcombe-les-hauts-de-valcombe-rouge-ventoux-2013-organic\">Ch\u00e2teau Valcombe Les Hauts de Valcombe Rouge Ventoux 2013<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was the\u00a0magnificent &#8216;<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Iphig%C3%A9nie_en_Tauride\">Iphig\u00e9nie en Tauride<\/a>&#8216;, by <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Christoph_Willibald_Gluck\">Christoph Willibald Ritter von Gluck<\/a>, performed\u00a0[<a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=QTgmncbsqzg\">here\u00a0the\u00a0full-length\u00a0recording<\/a>] by Marc Minkowski and Les Musiciens du Louvre<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>And, speaking of fruit, we enjoyed a\u00a0dessert of a fine homemade\u00a0sorbetto, made by a friend.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/sorbetto_Tim_Evans.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4964\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/08\/sorbetto_Tim_Evans.jpg\" alt=\"sorbetto_Tim_Evans\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the sorbetto incorporated\u00a0several varieties of plums, blackberries, lemon, sugar, and gelatin), and after I had placed it on a deep blue saucer and garnished\u00a0it with spearmint leaves from Eataly, it managed to look more than a little holiday-ish<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The images above show two stages of the\u00a0vegetable saut\u00e9 process, and as it was served with the lamb. &nbsp; Better than ever, thanks to ramp fruit. The two lamb chops we had last night were the second of two pairs inside\u00a0a single package I had brought home frozen from the Greenmarket over two\u00a0weeks back. \u00a0I &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4942","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4942","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4942"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4942\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4942"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4942"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4942"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}