{"id":25081,"date":"2019-11-21T02:25:13","date_gmt":"2019-11-21T02:25:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=25081"},"modified":"2019-11-21T02:25:13","modified_gmt":"2019-11-21T02:25:13","slug":"la-gricia-la-cucina-de-na-vorta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=25081","title":{"rendered":"la gricia, la cucina de na vorta"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

It’s still 1989. Or even once upon a time.<\/p>\n

This dish is a classic in Italy [cf. ‘pasta alla gricia<\/a>‘]. In a way, it was already a classic to me<\/em> before I had even tasted it: Because it included a recipe, for a pasta preparation called ‘la Gricia’, that looked so genuine and uncomplicated, and the photograph that accompanied it so seductive, I had cut out a newspaper article describing a very simple peasant dish many years before Barry and I sat down to it in a Trastevere trattoria in the Vicolo del Mattonato. “da Lucia” serves, in Roman dialect,\u00a0la cucina de na vorta\u00a0<\/em>(the cooking of once upon a time), and it was the same place featured in that 1989 New York Times article<\/a>); I began reproducing it as soon as we returned to New York, and the dish is now a classic in our kitchen<\/a>.<\/p>\n

We’ve returned to da Lucia many times. We actually always sat at a table outside (no fancy umbrellas back then, only laundry overhead, and one evening the sound of crockery being thrown in anger, but these are images of the inside<\/a>, which has its own charms.<\/p>\n