{"id":23768,"date":"2019-08-24T00:09:51","date_gmt":"2019-08-24T00:09:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=23768"},"modified":"2019-08-24T00:09:51","modified_gmt":"2019-08-24T00:09:51","slug":"whole-wheat-pasta-with-anchovy-garlic-chili-capers-kale","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=23768","title":{"rendered":"whole wheat pasta with anchovy, garlic, chili, capers, kale"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23773\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/pasta_kale_anchovy_garlic.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;d been waiting for an opportunity to revisit one of my favorite darker artisanal pastas, but the weather hadn&#8217;t been cooperating. I had bought the package in the spring, when the weather was much cooler. I think of wholewheat pasta, and the kind of accoutrements it suggests, as just a little too earthy for a hot summer meal, even though that notion is almost certainly just inside my head.<\/p>\n<p>Last night, while our air conditioning was separating us from the August heat and humidity, I thought of it again when I realized I had a small bunch of light kale I had bought for the meal the evening before, but ended up not using.\u00a0I thought it would be an excellent match for its special appeal, and it certainly was. Still, I did leave off the shaved cheese topping suggested as an option by <a href=\"https:\/\/cooking.nytimes.com\/recipes\/1015085-pasta-with-anchovies-garlic-chiles-and-kale\">Melissa Clark, the author of the recipe<\/a>. After all, it was still summer.<\/p>\n<p>[note to the file &#8211; and to Clark&#8217;s editors: I&#8217;m pretty certain there&#8217;s a mistake in the published recipe where it says: &#8220;Add chiles and a pinch of salt and toast until golden, 1 to 2 minutes.&#8221;, since the chiles are very red, very dry, in any event wouldn&#8217;t normally require toasting, and definitely not for 1 to 2 minutes; she may have meant that the garlic should be added at that pont, ahead of the capers and anchovies, but that seems unlikely]<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23776\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/kale_redbor.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>a bit of crushed dried\u00a0<em>Itria-Sirissi chili, pepperoncino di Sardegna intero<\/em> from Buon Italia in the Chelsea Market added to roughly 3 tablespoons of olive oil inside a large antique copper pot and briefly heated over a medium flame, followed by 4 fat &#8216;Nootka rose&#8217; garlic cloves from TransGenerational Farm that had been crushed and skinned, 2 tablespoons of thoroughly rinsed and drained Sicilian capers, &#8220;patted dry with a paper towel to encourage browning&#8221;, writes Clark, although I&#8217;ve never been able to do this with capers, and couldn&#8217;t this time, and 4 well-rinsed, drained, and filleted salted Sicilian anchovies, all cooked until everything was softened, the capers, ideally, looking crisp around the edges, and the anchovies dissolved into the oil, or for about 3 to 4 minutes, at which point one small bunch of young, trimmed, washed, drained, and chopped <a href=\"https:\/\/www.specialtyproduce.com\/produce\/Redbor_Kale_6646.php\">Redbor kale<\/a> from TransGenerational Farm was stirred into the pot, and 9 ounces of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.eataly.net\/it_en\/vesuvio-100-italian-wheat-1kg-afeltra\">Afeltra \u2018Vesuvio\u2019 whole wheat Italian\u00a0<em>Pastaio di Gragnano\u00a0<\/em><\/a>from Eataly Flatiron, cooked <em>al dente<\/em>, tossed in, followed by at least 3 quarters of a cup of reserved cooking water, and everything stirred with my ancient #1 wooden spoon over high heat until the liquid had emulsified, when plenty of freshly ground black pepper was added and a bit of organic Mexican lemon from Chelsea Whole Foods Market squeezed over the top, the pasta tossed one more time, then served in 2 shallow bowls<\/li>\n<li>the wine was an Oregon (Willamette Valley) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/products\/chris-baker-willamette-pinot-gris-2018\">Chris Baker Willamette Pinot Gris 2018<\/a>, from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/full_site#\/\">Naked Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li>and speaking of the seasons, the music was\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/music\/2014\/sep\/14\/haydn-schopfung-haitink-bayerischen-rudfunks-review\">Haydn&#8217;s own interpretation, &#8216;Die Sch\u00f6pfung&#8217;, Bernard Haitink conducting the\u00a0Choir and Orchestra of the Bayerischen Rundfunks<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;d been waiting for an opportunity to revisit one of my favorite darker artisanal pastas, but the weather hadn&#8217;t been cooperating. I had bought the package in the spring, when the weather was much cooler. I think of wholewheat pasta, and the kind of accoutrements it suggests, as just a little too earthy for a &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-23768","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23768","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=23768"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23768\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=23768"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=23768"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=23768"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}