{"id":23228,"date":"2019-06-24T03:12:46","date_gmt":"2019-06-24T03:12:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=23228"},"modified":"2019-06-24T03:12:46","modified_gmt":"2019-06-24T03:12:46","slug":"pasta-pink-celery-spring-garlic-habanada-coquillo-pinoli","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=23228","title":{"rendered":"pasta, pink celery, spring garlic, habanada, coquillo, pinoli"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23232\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/pink_celery_spaghettone.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Pretty in pink.<\/p>\n<p>How did Americans get saddled with the celery equivalent of supermarket tomatoes or apples? It seems it&#8217;s for pretty much the same reasons, as <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Celery\">I learned<\/a> this week:<\/p>\n<p><em>In the 1930s growers shifted to varieties derived from Giant Pascal, such as Tall Utah, that were more resistant, productive and kept well. This \u201cPascal celery\u201d was also cheaper to grow because it produced high-quality green stalks without blanching, similar to what we eat today,&#8230;<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>[today] Just a few California farms produce heirloom or unusual celery. Martin\u2019s Farm in Salinas grows Giant Red, an heirloom that looks like rhubarb, and Dorato Gigante, a yellowish-green variety from Italy. \u201cThey have profound, intense flavor only hinted at with the current kind of celery,\u201d said farmer-owner Martin Bournhonesque.<\/em> &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.latimes.com\/food\/la-fo-when-celery-ruled-the-southland-20190508-story.html\">from a recent article in the Los Angeles Times<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Last night we learned a little about one alternative, thanks to\u00a0Chris Field &amp; Jessi Okamoto of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/camporossofarm\/?hl=en\">Campo Rosso Farm<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>I think it&#8217;s a pretty spectacular illustration of what cannot be found in an the American supermarket:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23250\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/pink_celery_market.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>And then the fun began.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23253\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/chopped_pink_celery.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>(continuing while waiting for the spring garlic to soften)<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23251\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/celery_in-colander.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one medium size minced shallot from Alex&#8217;s Tomato Farm in the Saturday\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/downtoearthmarkets.com\/markets?region=Manhattan&amp;market=Chelsea+Farmers+Market\">Chelsea\u2019s Down to Earth Farmers Market\u00a0<\/a>on West 23rd Street, heated, stirring, over a moderate flame in a couple tablespoons of olive oil inside a large antique copper pot until softened and fragrant, then one bundle of small\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.theoldfoodie.com\/2012\/06\/pink-celery.html\">Chinese pink celery<\/a> from Campo Rosso Farm, trimmed, the stems cut into pieces on average an inch long, some of the more tender leaves chopped and set aside to be added near the end, stirred in and cooked until softened to the table&#8217;s preference and a pinch or so of some of t<span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">he (now powdered) remains of some light-colored <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2017\/02\/28\/the-habanada-pepper-fresh-and-dried-two-ways\/\">home-dried habanada pepper<\/a>\u00a0that had been purchased fresh from Norwich Meadows Farm in 2017, followed by the addition of <\/span><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">10 ounces of\u00a0<\/span><a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.eataly.com\/us_en\/pasta-pantry\/afeltra-100-italian-grain-spaghettone-17-6-oz\">Afeltra Spaghettone<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">\u00a0(a long Neapolitan pasta slightly fatter than spaghetti), cooked only until <em>al dente<\/em>, along with most of a cup of its cooking water, <\/span><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">stirred over high heat until the liquid had emulsified, the pan r<\/span><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">emoved from the heat, <\/span><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">some zest and a little juice from an organic Whole Foods Market lemon gently introduced, seasoned with some\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/wagnerblog\/status\/1130585718198345728\">local Long Island sea salt (from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood)<\/a>,\u00a0and freshly ground black pepper, tossed with<\/span><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">\u00a0a dozen or so pitted <a href=\"https:\/\/www.delallo.com\/blog\/coquillo-nicoise-style-olives\/#\">Ni\u00e7oise-style <em>coquillo<\/em> olives<\/a> (Spain\/Murcia, sweet, slightly smoky!) from Whole Foods and some of the reserved celery leaves, tra<\/span><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">nsferred to shallow bowls, some toasted pine nuts from Flatiron Eataly scattered on top, and sprinkled with more celery\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">leaves, the edges drizzled with olive oil<\/span><\/li>\n<li><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">the wine was an Oregon (Willamette Valley) ros\u00e9,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.erath.com\/shop\/wines\/2018-oregon-rose-of-pinot-noir\">2018 Oregon Ros\u00e9 of Pinot Noir<\/a>, ordered from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.erath.com\/\">Erath<\/a>\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<li>the music was the album, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.deutschegrammophon.com\/us\/cat\/4741932\">&#8216;Dream of the Orient&#8217;, with performances by\u00a0Concerto K\u00f6ln and Saraband<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pretty in pink. How did Americans get saddled with the celery equivalent of supermarket tomatoes or apples? It seems it&#8217;s for pretty much the same reasons, as I learned this week: In the 1930s growers shifted to varieties derived from Giant Pascal, such as Tall Utah, that were more resistant, productive and kept well. This &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-23228","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23228","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=23228"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23228\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=23228"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=23228"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=23228"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}