{"id":22676,"date":"2019-05-25T21:18:43","date_gmt":"2019-05-25T21:18:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=22676"},"modified":"2019-05-25T21:18:43","modified_gmt":"2019-05-25T21:18:43","slug":"duck-lovage-roasted-squash-celery-radish-thyme-spinach","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=22676","title":{"rendered":"duck, lovage;  roasted squash\/celery\/radish, thyme; spinach"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22688\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/iphone_duck_.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>While the photograph above is my favorite image of this meal, this one may really describe it better:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22678\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/duck_roots_spinach.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>On Monday afternoon, the same day I had picked up <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2019\/05\/21\/swordfish-belly-garlic-tomato-potato-garlic-mustard-kale\/\">the swordfish belly that I prepared that night<\/a>, I had also bought one fresh duck breast. At the time I was thinking of it as a small &#8216;speculative&#8217; investment: Because we had enjoyed a meal of meat only a few days before, it was unlikely that we we&#8217;d be eating more soon. I thought I&#8217;d freeze it until an occasion presented itself, but before I did, it was Tuesday, and the occasion had arrived.<\/p>\n<p>It was the cool weather, but mostly it was the vegetables.<\/p>\n<p>I had suddenly remembered that I had a couple of small yummy-type squash in the refrigerator, which, together with some luscious spinach I had bought the day before, almost demanded something like duck.<\/p>\n<p>Forgotten however,\u00a0since they had been there almost a month, was the just <em>how<\/em>\u00a0small these kabocha squash actually were (they were the runts of the bucket, and the last 2 cleft in the farmer&#8217;s stall, which is pretty much why I had bought them), especially since they had become just a little desiccated over that time, and I still had to hollow out and remove the seeds and stringy pulp. I realized the inadequacy of their size only once I had begun preparing dinner, so necessity was the mother of inspiration. They had almost disappeared, but I still had sufficient warning of the problem, and I managed to find a small supporting cast:\u00a0I added a little celery and a few small very spicy radishes, roughly chopped, then continued, improvising a bit, with a recipe I would have used if it had been the squash alone that I was cooking.<\/p>\n<p>It was delicious, more than just a good complement to the duck and the spinach.<\/p>\n<p>The spinach cooked down fast, seemed to be trying to\u00a0disappear,\u00a0but I put a brake on it just before it did, and its sweetness made up for the smallness of its final portion.<\/p>\n<p>The duck itself was pretty small, but it&#8217;s a very intense, sturdy meat; it came with no surprises, presented absolutely no difficulties; it helps that I could almost do this recipe in my sleep; and it was superb, as always.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one 14-ounce duck breast from\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/hudsonvalleyduckfarm.com\/\">Hudson River Duck Farm<\/a>, the\u00a0fatty side scored in tight cross hatching with\u00a0a very sharp knife, after which the entire breast rubbed,\u00a0top and bottom, with a mixture of sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper,\u00a0and a little turbinado sugar, left standing on the counter for about\u00a045 minutes to an hour before being pan-fried, fatty side down first, inside a small oval enameled cast iron pan over medium heat for a total of about 9 or 10 minutes, turning once, draining the oil\u00a0after the first few minutes (the fat strained can be used in cooking at another time, if desired), the breast removed when medium rare, cut crosswise into 2\u00a0portions and checked for the right doneness in the center, which means\u00a0<em>definitely no more than medium rare<\/em>, and\u00a0<em>maybe even a bit less<\/em>, drizzled with a little juice from an organic\u00a0Whole Foods Market lemon and some olive oil,\u00a0the halves transferred to warm plates sitting on top of the oven<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22681\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/mini_kabocha.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>two\u00a0mini\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Kabocha\">kabocha squash<\/a>\u00a0from Lani\u2019s Farm\u00a0scrubbed, halved, the seeds and pith removed, cut into narrow wedges, plus an equal amount each of celery from Chelsea Whole Foods Market and Korean green Mu radishes from Norwich Meadows Farm, all roughly cut into the same size as the squash, mixed by hand inside a large bowl with a relatively small amount of olive oil, sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, and a pinch from a gorgeous (dried) hickory smoked\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.fieryfoodscentral.com\/2008\/06\/01\/the-scotch-bonnet-peppers-of-jamaica\/\">Jamaican Scotch bonnet pepper<\/a>\u00a0from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/eckertonhillfarm.com\/\">Eckerton Hill Farm<\/a>, purchased in the Greenmarket last December, arranged on a large, unglazed, well-seasoned ceramic pan and roasted at 425\u00ba for 20 or 25 minutes, the vegetables removed from the oven and transferred to a large heavy antique copper pot in which 3 sliced bulbs of &#8216;Music&#8217; spring garlic from Windfall Farms and a generous amount of fresh thyme leaves from Phillips Farms had been gently heated in a bit of olive oil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/spinach-2.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>a few ounces of loose spinach from Alewife Farm, washed in several changes of water, drained, very gently wilted (that is, trying not reduce it\u00a0<em>too<\/em> far) inside a large, heavy, antique high-sided tin-lined copper pot in a little olive oil in which 3 quartered cloves of\u00a0\u2018music garlic\u2019 from Windfall Farms\u00a0had first been allowed to sweat, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a bit of crushed dried Calabrian <em>peperoncini secchia<\/em> from Buon Italia,\u00a0finished on the plates with a little more olive oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine was\u00a0 French (Languedoc-Roussillon\/Corbieres) red,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.fontsainte.com\/rouge.htm\">Domaine de Fontsainte Rouge AOC Corbi\u00e8res<\/a> [unfortunately I didn&#8217;t document the vintage, and we don&#8217;t remember from whom we acquired it]<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22698\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/La_Casa_Diavolo.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"355\" height=\"355\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music was the\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ilgiardinoarmonico.com\/\">Il Giardino Armonico<\/a>\u00a0album, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.ilgiardinoarmonico.com\/la-casa-del-diavolo\/\">&#8216;La casa del Diavolo&#8217;<\/a> [The House of the Devil]<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>While the photograph above is my favorite image of this meal, this one may really describe it better: On Monday afternoon, the same day I had picked up the swordfish belly that I prepared that night, I had also bought one fresh duck breast. At the time I was thinking of it as a small &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-22676","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22676","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=22676"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22676\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=22676"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=22676"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=22676"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}