{"id":22472,"date":"2019-05-07T00:31:09","date_gmt":"2019-05-07T00:31:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=22472"},"modified":"2019-05-07T00:31:09","modified_gmt":"2019-05-07T00:31:09","slug":"grilled-merlot-steak-ramp-butter-roasted-fingerlings-rabe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=22472","title":{"rendered":"grilled merlot steak, ramp butter; roasted fingerlings; rabe"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22479\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/merlot_steak.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;ve definitely never cooked a merlot steak, and now after engaging it one on one, I can&#8217;t remember whether I had even <em>heard<\/em> of it before last Saturday. We&#8217;d just left an art fair that afternoon, when I realized that while we would be guests at a dinner that evening, we hadn&#8217;t yet decided what we&#8217;d have for dinner on Sunday. We were near one of our favorite neighborhood butchers, so we walked a few blocks further downtown to our neighborhood whole-animal butcher shop.<\/p>\n<p>Fro some time now my preferred steak has been the culotte, or what Brazilians call the <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=picanha\"><em>picanha<\/em><\/a>, but it&#8217;s not always easy to find, and while <a href=\"http:\/\/hudsonandcharles.com\/\">Hudson &amp; Charles<\/a>\u00a0(located, naturally, on Hudson, near Charles, in the West Village) did have one, its particular size and shape wouldn&#8217;t really have worked for us that night, so I asked the butcher what he might recommend in its place.<\/p>\n<p>He suggested a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=ijw7NpizQ8Q\">&#8216;merlot&#8217; (video from the Meathook,\u00a0 another local whole-animal shop)<\/a>, an under-appreciated tender beef steak from the side of the heel inside a larger muscle group called the campanella. I had spotted the word, &#8216;merlot&#8217; on a label below a steak inside the glass-front cooler just before I asked the question. Its size was perfect, his description made it sound like a winner, and that&#8217;s what it turned out to be.<\/p>\n<p>So, 2 days later I found myself in the kitchen with around one pound of an unfamiliar merlot steak, armed with nothing more than salt, pepper, a couple tablespoons of butter, a few ramp leaves, and some lemon zest.<\/p>\n<p>It was terrific, as were the Greenmarket vegetables that joined it.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>before preparing the meat itself, the leaves of half a dozen ramps (maybe one or 2 tablespoons) from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, washed, dried, and chopped, half a teaspoon of zest from a Chelsea Whole Foods Market organic lemon, sea salt, and some freshly ground black pepper were mixed into 2 and a half tablespoons of softened butter, molded into squares or pats, then set in the refrigerator to chill, removed just as the steak was beginning to cook, meaning one 15-ounce &#8216;merlot&#8217; steak from Hudson &amp; Charles, halved, dried, rubbed generously with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, was set aside for about an hour, after which time it was placed inside a grill pan already quite hot above a fairly high flame, where the steaks remained, although turned at least once, for about a total of 6 minutes, or until they were medium rare (after they had mostly cooked, I loosely tented the 2 pieces with aluminum foil, and removed both foil and steaks when an instant read thermometer indicated they were medium rare), allowed to rest for 8 minutes or so, then quickly cut across the grain into 1\/2&#8243; sections, the reserved ramp butter spread on top<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22481\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/red_skin2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"350\" height=\"467\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22482\" style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/pinto_May6.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"350\" height=\"467\" \/><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>five buttery pinto potatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm and\u00a05 sweet redskin potatoes from Race Farm (what remained that night from a larger stock of each), all halved, tossed with a little olive oil (barely a tablespoon), salt, black pepper, a pinch of hickory smoked Jamaican Scotch Bonnet pepper from Eckerton Hill Farm, and another pinch of home dried <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2017\/02\/28\/the-habanada-pepper-fresh-and-dried-two-ways\/\">habanada pepper<\/a>, originally from Norwich Meadows Farm, spread across the surface of a large Pampered Chef unglazed ceramic pan and roasted at 400\u00ba for a little longer than 20 minutes<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22484\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/rabe.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>broccoli rabe from\u00a0Migliorelli Farm,\u00a0washed and drained 3 times, braised inside a large, heavy antique copper pot in which two\u00a0halved garlic cloves from\u00a0Foragers Market had been allowed to sweat in some olive oil, the dish finished with salt, black pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Spanish (Castile and Le\u00f3n\/<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Sierra_de_Gredos\">Gredos Mountains<\/a>) red,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/ruben-diaz-gredos-garnacha-la-escalera-2016\">Ruben Diaz, Gredos Garnacha &#8216;La Escalera&#8217; 2016<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/\">Flatiron Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=168442&amp;album_group=14\">the album, &#8216;Dutch Symphonies&#8217;, Anthony Halstead conducting the Netherlands Radio Chamber Orchestra<\/a>, including 2 works by\u00a0<a class=\"noline\" href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/Name\/Carolus-Antonius-Fodor\/Composer\/111763-1\">Carolus Antonius Fodor<\/a>, and one by\u00a0<a class=\"noline\" href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/Name\/Johan-Gabriel-Meder\/Composer\/151604-1\">Johan Gabriel Meder<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;ve definitely never cooked a merlot steak, and now after engaging it one on one, I can&#8217;t remember whether I had even heard of it before last Saturday. We&#8217;d just left an art fair that afternoon, when I realized that while we would be guests at a dinner that evening, we hadn&#8217;t yet decided what &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-22472","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22472","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=22472"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22472\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=22472"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=22472"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=22472"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}