{"id":22379,"date":"2019-05-01T01:18:22","date_gmt":"2019-05-01T01:18:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=22379"},"modified":"2019-05-01T01:18:22","modified_gmt":"2019-05-01T01:18:22","slug":"pork-rillettes-7-hour-pork-belly-salt-potatoes-tomato-salad","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=22379","title":{"rendered":"pork rillettes; 7-hour pork belly, salt potatoes; tomato salad"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22394\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/rillettes.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The concept, or description of this meal alone might almost be satisfaction enough for a food enthusiast, if it had not also been <em>really<\/em> delicious, with all of the unusually long history of its making able to be fully savored in the tasting of it; also, aural satisfaction would assume the listener wasn&#8217;t actually hungry to start with.<\/p>\n<p>I was writing above about the main course, but the appetizer was no slouch in any long food preparation contest, except that <a href=\"http:\/\/www.hudsonvalleycharcuterie.com\/\"><em>somebodies else<\/em><\/a> had done the work in its case, and spent the time, before I found their fabulous charcuterie selections in the Union Square Greenmarket.<\/p>\n<p>The meat in the first course, while certainly related to the second in its origins (pork belly!), could not have been more different as served.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the contents of a small 3-ounce jar of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.hudsonvalleycharcuterie.com\/\">Hudson Vally Charcuterie<\/a> at <a href=\"http:\/\/ravenandboar.com\/\">Raven &amp; Boar<\/a> farm Smoked Rillettes\/pork belly confit from pastured heritage whey fed pigs spread on toasted slices of a buckwheat baguette from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.runnerandstone.com\/\">Runner &amp; Stone Bakery<\/a><\/li>\n<li>dabs of a horseradish\u00a0jelly from\u00a0<a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.berkshireberries.com\/\">Berkshire Berries<\/a><\/li>\n<li>two small heads of Gem lettuce (a sturdy dwarf Romaine) from <a href=\"https:\/\/tamarackhollowfarm.com\/\">Tamarack Hollow Farm<\/a>, their roots snipped off and the leaves pressed down to almost resemble rosettes, dressed with a good olive oil, <em style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">Badia a Coltibuono, Monti del Chianti<\/em><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\"> from\u00a0Chelsea Whole Foods Market, Maldon sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a bit of plain white vinegar<\/span><\/li>\n<li>the wine with the first course, an amazing, brilliant riesling, was an Australian (Victoria\/Great Western) white,\u00a0<a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.astorwines.com\/SearchResultsSingle.aspx?p=1&amp;search=35815&amp;searchtype=Contains\">Best&#8217;s &#8216;Great Western&#8217; Riesling 2017<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">, made by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bestswines.com\/\">Best&#8217;s Wines<\/a>, from <\/span><a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.astorwines.com\/Default.aspx\">Astor Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-22395\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/pork_belly.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I used <a href=\"https:\/\/www.epicurious.com\/recipes\/food\/views\/dan-barbers-pork-belly-232205\">a Dan Barber recipe<\/a>\u00a0to prepare the main course of pork belly, although I had a much smaller piece of meat than he has\/had.<\/p>\n<p>I started exactly 4 days before we sat down to dinner<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>On Friday night I prepared a spice rub, reducing Barber&#8217;s amounts to serve a piece of pork weighing little over a pound (I actually already had all of the ingredients): 2 tablespoon fennel seeds; 2 teaspoons cumin seeds; 1 teaspoon coriander seeds; 1 1\/2 teaspoons black peppercorns; 1 small piece of star anise; 1 small piece of cinnamon stick [I think I forgot to add this]; 1\/3 teaspoon of white peppercorns; 1 teaspoon of whole cloves; 2 teaspoons of ground coriander; 3 tablespoons of salt; and 3 tablespoons of sugar; I scored the narrow top layer of fat (which was the configuration of the piece I had), rubbed the spices into the meat, and left it covered inside the &#8216;ice box&#8217; (refrigerator) until Monday morning, when I rinsed the pork belly, placed it inside the perfect size oval enameled cast iron pot that I&#8217;ve had for almost 50 years, and then covered it with a liquid composed of just under one cup of a good low-sodium\u00a0<a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.betterthanbouillon.com\/\">Better Than Bullion<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">\u00a0chicken base, but adding roughly a third of a cup of an incredibly rich and very complex stock remaining from <\/span><a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2019\/01\/04\/geraucherter-fischaufstrich-kassler-meerrettichkartoffeln\/\">a January meal of braised smoked pork loin<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\"> that I had been keeping in the freezer, covered the meat and the liquid with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit, and placed the pot inside a very &#8216;slow&#8217;, 200\u00ba oven, not touching it for exactly 7 hours, at which time I removed the pot from the oven, divided the belly into 2 pieces and let it come to room temperature in its liquid before removing it and placing it in the refrigerator until I was ready to heat it inside a small copper skillet with a tablespoon or more of butter, turning once, arranging the pork on 2 plates, not even <em>thinking<\/em> about adding a garnish, since they were clearly their own adornment<\/span><\/li>\n<li>just under a pound of pinto potatoes from Norwich Meadows Farm in the Union Square Greenmarket, scrubbed, boiled whole and unpeeled in heavily-salted water until barely cooked through, drained, halved, dried in the\u00a0still-warm large vintage Corning\u00a0<a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.ndga.net\/articles\/gmflameware.php\">Pyrex Flameware<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">\u00a0blue-glass\u00a0<\/span><a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.ebay.com\/itm\/VIntage-Pyrex-6-Piece-Blue-Tint-Flameware-Stovetop-Pans-Removeable-Handles-\/111577304599\">pot<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">\u00a0in which they had cooked, a tablespoons of\u00a0<\/span><a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.organicvalley.coop\/products\/butter\/european-style-cultured-butter\/european-style-cultured-butter-8-oz\/\">Organic Valley European-Style Cultured Butter\u00a0<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">added, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, arranged on the plates and sprinkled with homemade breadcrumbs that had first been browned in a little butter with a pinch of salt, garnished with chopped parsley from Phillips Farms<\/span><\/li>\n<li>a rather German salad, served in a shallow bowl to the side, composed of 6 quartered\u00a0Backyard Farms Maine \u2018cocktail tomatoes\u2019 from Chelsea Whole Foods Market, tossed with one small sliced red onion\u00a0from Kellie Quarton&#8217;s Quarton Farm, salt, black pepper, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and less than one tablespoon of plain vinegar, plus a mix of herbs (lovage from Two Guys from Woodbridge, spearmint from Stokes Farms, sage and thyme from Phillips Farms), and allowed to sit for 30 minutes before serving<\/li>\n<li>the wine with the main course was an extraordinary German (<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ahr_(wine_region)\">Ahr<\/a>) red, and an extraordinary good pairing with the pork belly,\u00a0<a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.gramercywine.com\/wines\/Meyer-Nakel-Ahr-Spatburgunder-Pinot-Noir-2014-w5582510oo\">Meyer-N\u00e4kel Ahr Sp\u00e4tburgunder Pinot Noir 2014<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">, from <\/span><a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.gramercywine.com\/\">Gramercy Wine<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music throughout the meal was a beautiful <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=183720\">recording of only <em>some<\/em> of Mendelssohn&#8217;s wonderful String Symphonies, performed by Concerto K\u00f6ln<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The concept, or description of this meal alone might almost be satisfaction enough for a food enthusiast, if it had not also been really delicious, with all of the unusually long history of its making able to be fully savored in the tasting of it; also, aural satisfaction would assume the listener wasn&#8217;t actually hungry &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-22379","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22379","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=22379"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/22379\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=22379"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=22379"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=22379"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}