{"id":21910,"date":"2019-04-01T06:00:31","date_gmt":"2019-04-01T06:00:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=21910"},"modified":"2019-04-01T06:00:31","modified_gmt":"2019-04-01T06:00:31","slug":"culotte-steak-chives-habanada-roasted-potatoes-lacinato","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=21910","title":{"rendered":"culotte steak, chives; habanada-roasted potatoes; lacinato"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21914\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/steak_potatoes_lacinato.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The best steak.<\/p>\n<p>The plate suggested the New York steak house classic: Steak and potatoes, with something green on the side. There were even chives, but they weren&#8217;t to be found on the baked potato, and the vegetable proved that everything green is not spinach. Actually, I think everything was very different.<\/p>\n<p>We don&#8217;t eat out much, and I think neither of us has been to a real steak house more than once in our lives.<\/p>\n<p>In fact, we don&#8217;t eat beef of any kind very often, but when we do it&#8217;s normally a steak, and the steaks I&#8217;ve chosen more and more are of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.gq.com\/story\/the-unconsidered-cut-3\">a single perfect cut<\/a>, the sirloin cap steak (aka &#8216;rump cover&#8217;, &#8216;rump cap&#8217;, or &#8216;culotte&#8217; in the United States, and \u2018coulotte\u2019 in France, \u2018picanha\u2019 in Brazil). There are reasons for this, and we&#8217;re reminded of them every time we&#8217;re able to enjoy the texture and the flavor of this great cut.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m noting right now, for my own records at least, that for once no fancy micro greens showed up for dinner. Maybe it was an unconscious obeisance\u00a0to the sturdy fare served in the classic steak houses that still remain in this city.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one perfect, frozen 23-ounce <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Picanha\">picanha\/culotte steak<\/a> from <a href=\"http:\/\/sunfedbeef.com\/\">Sun Fed Beef<\/a> in the Union Square Greenmarket, defrosted, brought to room temperature, seasoned on all sides with sea salt and a generous amount of freshly-ground\u00a0black pepper, seared for less than a minute on the top, thick, fat-covered side inside a dry oval heavy enameled cast iron pan, then the 2 long sides cooked for 3 or 4 minutes each and the ends briefly seared, removed from the pan at the moment it had become perfectly medium-rare (checking with an instant-read thermometer), carefully cut crosswise into 2 pieces of the same weight, arranged on warm plates,\u00a0a bit of juice from an organic Chelsea Whole Foods Market lemon squeezed on top, followed by a drizzle of a little of Trader Joe&#8217;s Italian Reserve extra unfiltered virgin olive oil, scattered with scissored fresh chives from Phillips Farms,\u00a0the steaks allowed to rest for about 4 minutes before being served<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21933\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/la_ratte.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>just under a pound of<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Ratte_potato\"> La Ratte potatoes<\/a> from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.seriouseats.com\/2009\/08\/meet-your-farmers-rick-bishop-of-mountain-swe.html\">Mountain Sweet Berry Farm<\/a>, halved lengthwise, tossed with olive oil, a small amount of crushed dried\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2017\/02\/28\/the-habanada-pepper-fresh-and-dried-two-ways\/\">habanada pepper<\/a>, sea salt, and freshly-ground black pepper, roasted inside a large seasoned Pampered Chef ceramic oven pan, cut side down, inside a 400\u00ba oven for about 20 minutes<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21934\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/lacinto.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one not-so-large bunch of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.farmanddairy.com\/top-stories\/7-considerations-for-gardening-with-high-tunnels\/479557.html\">high tunnel<\/a>-raised\u00a0<em><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lacinato_kale\">cavolo nero<\/a><\/em>\u00a0(aka\u00a0<em>lacinato<\/em>, Tuscan kale, or black kale, among other names) from Norwich Meadows Farm, wilted briefly inside a heavy antique medium size tin-lined copper pot in a tablespoon or so of olive oil\u00a0after several halved cloves of garlic, also from Norwich Meadows, had first been heated there until fragrant and softened, the greens seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper and drizzled with a little more oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Spanish (Catalonia\/Priorat) red,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.crushwineco.com\/2015-sao-del-coster-priorat-750-ml.html\">Sao del Coster Priorat 2015<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.crushwineco.com\/\">Crush Wine &amp; Spirits<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21938\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/Gander.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music was\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.kairos-music.com\/cds\/0012682kai\">Bernhard Gander&#8217;s album, &#8216;Bunny Games&#8217;, the music performed by\u00a0Klangforum Wien, here meaning Hsin-Huei Huang, Krassimir Sterev, Emilio Pom\u00e1rico, Johannes Kalitzke, and Sylvain Cambreling<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[image of Gander&#8217;s album cover from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.kairos-music.com\/cds\/0012682kai\">KAIROS<\/a>]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The best steak. The plate suggested the New York steak house classic: Steak and potatoes, with something green on the side. There were even chives, but they weren&#8217;t to be found on the baked potato, and the vegetable proved that everything green is not spinach. Actually, I think everything was very different. We don&#8217;t eat &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-21910","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21910","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=21910"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21910\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=21910"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=21910"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=21910"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}