{"id":21349,"date":"2019-02-28T23:49:34","date_gmt":"2019-02-28T23:49:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=21349"},"modified":"2019-02-28T23:49:34","modified_gmt":"2019-02-28T23:49:34","slug":"coppa-arugula-baked-cod-potatoes-tomato-frizzy-mustard","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=21349","title":{"rendered":"coppa, arugula; baked cod, potatoes tomato; frizzy mustard"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21364\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/A-NIGHT-AT-THE-OPERA2050.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"373\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Like many nights, dinner at home was also a night at the opera.<\/p>\n<p>A note on the subject of our dinner music: During our evening meals we often listen to a recording of an entire opera (or a large section of one, continuing it later that night or the next day). I could call it our version of the little-mourned 1970s\u00a0&#8216;dinner theater&#8217; vogue, a cringeworthy form of entertainment that is now fortunately<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Dinner_theater#Popularity_and_decline\">\u00a0just about defunct<\/a>, but I&#8217;m not going to.<\/p>\n<p>Yet I do think our arrangements of dinner with classical music theater, even without the visuals, beats any other way of enjoying the operatic art form, except for the right seats at a good live performance. I have to point out that one thing in its favor not available to audience members at a live performance is the pleasure of exchanging reactions to the work, either silent or spoken, while\u00a0sitting across from the perfect dinner (and opera) companion. Also, being able to talk freely during the performance, and and to call for &#8211; and <em>get<\/em> &#8211; an &#8220;encore&#8221; of a particularly good aria or section from the piece. Oh, also, always some good wine at your seat.<\/p>\n<p>Still, the food is always the evening&#8217;s\u00a0<em>raison d&#8217;\u00eatre<\/em>. Last night, while we listened to [most of] a great recording of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Farnace\">Vivaldi\u2019s \u2018Il Farnace\u2019<\/a>, we were also enjoying a very good dinner.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21368\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/coppa_arugula.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The first course, although dominated by a meat, was uncharacteristically lighter than the main course of fish (noting that, had the order been the other way around, a heavy seafood dish followed by a light one of meat, it would not have been nearly as satisfactory).<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>a little more than 2 ounces of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.giorgiosalami.com\/\">Giorgio&#8217;s<\/a> <em>coppa dolce<\/em> from Flatiron Eataly, drizzled with a bit of Trader Joe&#8217;s unfiltered Italian Reserve extra virgin olive oil<\/li>\n<li>a small spray of\u00a0arugula from Norwich Meadows Farm, also drizzled with olive oil, and sprinkled with Malden salt and freshly ground black pepper<\/li>\n<li>slices of the excellent &#8216;table bread&#8217; (half organic bread flour, half fresh milled whole grain<br \/>\nwheat, spelt, rye, malted barley, plus water and salt) of Philadelphia&#8217;s <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lostbreadco.com\/\">Lost Bread Co.<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21367\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/cod_potatoes_tomatoes-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The main course was commissioned by Barry, who requested an entr\u00e9e of a firm white fish roasted on the top of sliced baked potatoes, for a cold February evening.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21361\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/cod.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>For what it&#8217;s worth, there were 11 potatoes left in the farmers&#8217; basket on Monday. I bought them all. They weighted exactly one pound. Every one of them was perfect. Nice.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21360\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/la_ratte.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">two 7-and-a-half-ounce cod fillets from American Seafood Company in the Union Square greenmarket, cooked using at least the <em>basics<\/em> of a recipe from Mark Bittman which I had come across many years ago, the cod washed and rinsed, placed in a platter on a bed of coarse sea salt, with more salt added on top until the pieces were completely covered, then set aside while a bed was prepared for them composed of a pound of la ratte potatoes from Phillips Farms, each sliced lengthwise by hand into 4 or 5\u00a0 sections to a thickness of roughly 1\/4&#8243;, then tossing them in a large bowl with olive oil, salt, black pepper, and a pinch of a dried smoked Scotch bonnet pepper from Eckerton Hill Farm, arranging the potatoes, overlapping, inside a rectangular glazed ceramic oven pan and cooking them for 25 minutes or so in a 400\u00ba oven, or until they were tender when pierced but not fully cooked, and then, the cod having already been thoroughly immersed in many fresh changes of water to bring down the saltiness, the fillets drained, dried, and placed inside the pan on top of the potatoes, drizzled with a little olive oil and sprinkled with black pepper, blanketed with thin slices of 3 Backyard Farms Maine \u2018cocktail tomatoes\u2019 from Chelsea Whole Foods Market, the tomatoes seasoned, lightly, with salt and pepper, the pan returned to the oven for about 8 or 9 minutes (the exact time depends on the thickness of the fillets), the cod removed with a spatula (or, better, 2 spatulas), along with as much of the potatoes as can be brought along with each piece, arranging everything as intact if possible onto the plates, returning to the pan for the remainder of the vegetables<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21363\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/frizzy_mustard-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">a handful of very beautiful and absolutely delicious &#8216;frizzy mustard&#8217; greens from Norwich Meadows Farm, drizzled with a bit of the same Trader Joe&#8217;s olive oil, which is really very good<\/li>\n<li class=\"p1\">the wine throughout the meal was a California (Central Coast\/Santa Ynez Valley) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/rick-boyer-coastal-white-blend-2017?cid=US\">Rick Boyer Santa Ynez Valley Dry White Blend 2017<\/a>, from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/full_site\">Naked Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li class=\"p1\">the music throughout the meal was the first two acts of\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.musicweb-international.com\/classrev\/2010\/Mar10\/Vivaldi_Farnace_op30471.htm\">Vivaldi\u2019s three-act 1726 opera, \u2018Il Farnace\u2019, in an extraordinarily beautiful\u00a0performance led by Jordi Savall;<\/a>\u00a0when <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2018\/03\/04\/allium-brushed-broiled-ocean-perch-with-anchovy-bok-choy\/\">we listened to it one year ago<\/a> I wrote that &#8220;..it was now at least our\u00a0third hearing,\u00a0not counting\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/jameswagner.com\/2004\/11\/group_team.html\">this one<\/a>, from over 12 years ago, in which Vivaldi\u2019s music accompanies Muntean\/Rosenblum\u2019s \u2018It Is Never Facts That Tell\u2019, the collaborative\u2019s digital projection of a great world emptied and reduced to an enormous landfill,\u00a0achingly beautiful, even without the music which accompanies its hooded figures&#8221;; we&#8217;re listening to the third act of the Jordi Savall recording as I write this the next day<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[the image at the top, a still from the 1935 Marx Brothers comedy, &#8216;<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/A_Night_at_the_Opera_(film)\">A night at the Opera<\/a>&#8216;, is from <a href=\"https:\/\/filmforum.org\/\">Film Forum<\/a>, but the link is not loading right now]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Like many nights, dinner at home was also a night at the opera. A note on the subject of our dinner music: During our evening meals we often listen to a recording of an entire opera (or a large section of one, continuing it later that night or the next day). I could call it &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-21349","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21349","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=21349"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/21349\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=21349"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=21349"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=21349"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}