{"id":20786,"date":"2019-01-20T23:05:00","date_gmt":"2019-01-20T23:05:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=20786"},"modified":"2019-01-20T23:05:00","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T23:05:00","slug":"thyme-roasted-white-pumpkin-cabbage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=20786","title":{"rendered":"thyme &#038; chili-grilled quail; roasted white pumpkin; cabbage"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20788\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/quail_white_squash_cabbage.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Quail\">quail<\/a> may have been domesticated, but it still tastes wild, which is a very good thing.<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s one of our favorite entr\u00e9es, even if it doesn&#8217;t appear on our table very often. It only showed up this time because, while looking for something else inside the packaged meat case in La Macelleria at Eataly Flatiron, I spotted a bag with 4 unfrozen partially-deboned quail.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">four partially-boned (a tweak which is always a treat for cooks and diners) farmed quail, weighing just over one pound together, from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.lafrieda.com\/foodservice\/poultry\/\">Pat Lafrieda<\/a>, via Eataly&#8217;s La Macelleria, rinsed, dried on paper towels and rubbed with sea salt and a judicious amount of crumbled dried <em>peperoncino Calabresi secchi<\/em> from <a href=\"https:\/\/buonitalia.com\/?v=7516fd43adaa\">Buon Italia<\/a> in the Chelsea Market, placed breast-side-down over medium-high flames on top of a heavy 2-burner seasoned cast iron ribbed pan, a number of sprigs of fresh local\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.goodnessgardens.com\/about-us\/\">Goodness Gardens<\/a>\u00a0thyme from Chelsea Whole Foods Market scattered over each, grilled for about 5 minutes, then turned over and, ensuring that they were now resting on top of the thyme, grilled for another 5 or 6 minutes, served on the plates with a squeeze of a local lemon, a very sweet small fruit from one of the greenhouses of <a href=\"http:\/\/fantasticgardensofli.com\/\">Fantastic Gardens of Long Island<\/a> in the Union Square Greenmarket, and a drizzle of olive oil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20797\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/white_pumpkin-.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one 5-inch white pumpkin squash from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.norwichmeadowsfarm.com\/\">Norwich Meadows Farm<\/a>, scrubbed, halved vertically, the seeds and pith removed, cut into wedges averaging a half inch thick on the outside end and mixed by hand inside a large bowl with a relatively small amount of olive oil, sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, and pieces of crushed dried\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2017\/02\/28\/the-habanada-pepper-fresh-and-dried-two-ways\/\">habanada pepper<\/a>, arranged in one layer on a large, unglazed, well-seasoned Pampered Chef ceramic pan and roasted at 425\u00ba for 25 minutes or so, removed from the oven and transferred to a large heavy high-sided copper pot in which 6 or 7 very small crushed cloves of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.longroadtoatomato.theexperimentpublishing.com\/\">Keith&#8217;s Farm<\/a> rocambole garlic and more than a dozen sage leaves from Whole Foods Market Chelsea had been gently heated in a bit of olive oil, the squash gently mixed in with a wooden spatula<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20796\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/part_cabbage.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li class=\"p1\">a portion of one Savoy cabbage from Norwich Meadows Farm (a remainder from the 2 heads used in <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2019\/01\/20\/monkfish-roasted-with-potatoes-olives-bay-savoy-cabbage\/\">the previous day&#8217;s meal<\/a>), sliced into one-half-inch ribbons, saut\u00e9ed in a scant tablespoon of olive oil inside a heavy medium-size tin-lined copper pot until wilted but still a little crunchy, stirring occasionally, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, 5 or 6 slightly smashed juniper berries mixed in, a few tiny drops of balsamic vinegar added and the mix stirred over the heat for only a moment, arranged on the plates and finished with a drizzle of olive oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a <em>super\u00a0<\/em>&#8211; if the phrase can be excused in this context &#8211; Italian (Tuscany) red, something of a maverick,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.argiano.net\/i-vini-en\/non-confunditur-igt\/?lang=en\">Argiano Non Confunditur 2015<\/a>, the gift of a Berlin friend who had been a guest for dinner on an earlier occasion<\/li>\n<li>the music was the extraordinarily beautiful <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ecmrecords.com\/catalogue\/143038752788\/harrison-birtwistle-chamber-music-lisa-batiashvili-adrian-brendel-till-fellner-amy-freston-roderick-williams\">2014 ECM album, &#8216;Harrison Birtwistle: Chamber Music&#8217;\u00a0<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The quail may have been domesticated, but it still tastes wild, which is a very good thing. It&#8217;s one of our favorite entr\u00e9es, even if it doesn&#8217;t appear on our table very often. It only showed up this time because, while looking for something else inside the packaged meat case in La Macelleria at Eataly &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-20786","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20786","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=20786"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20786\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=20786"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=20786"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=20786"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}