{"id":20759,"date":"2019-01-20T18:51:51","date_gmt":"2019-01-20T18:51:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=20759"},"modified":"2019-01-20T18:51:51","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T18:51:51","slug":"monkfish-roasted-with-potatoes-olives-bay-savoy-cabbage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=20759","title":{"rendered":"monkfish roasted with potatoes, olives, bay; savoy cabbage"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20765\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/monkfish_potatoes_cabbage.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We were entertaining guests from Berlin, one of whom hadn&#8217;t been to our apartment for dinner before, at least while we were there (we had exchanged apartments for a month). Neither meat nor pasta could be on the menu.\u00a0<span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">I wanted to serve something which we would all appreciate, and which also would allow me to be a part of the conversation even as I was cooking. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">The monkfish looked terrific at the market that afternoon, and I had <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/1999\/05\/19\/dining\/the-minimalist-fish-on-a-bed-of-potatoes.html\">a great Mark Bittman recipe<\/a> which by this point I could process blindfolded. Unfortunately the &#8216;tails&#8217; (the term almost always used to describe monkfish bodies, probably because their heads are disproportionately huge and <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=monkfish+potatoes\">pretty horrific<\/a> in appearance), were larger, and, more importantly, much thicker than any I had worked with before, their cooking time was way longer than what I had anticipated. Luckily the potatoes were very forgiving about having to endure a longer stay in the oven, and the meal actually turned out well.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">I did end up learning a couple of useful lessons because of the delay: Consider carefully the surprising\u00a0 mathematics of ingredient sizes, and buy smaller monkfish the next time.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>We hung out in the breakfast room (the dining room that evening) nibbling on\u00a0our archetypal small spread of breadsticks, roasted chick peas, and\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.fioredipuglia.com\/taralli-al-peperoncino\/\">Fiori di Puglia Taralli al Peperoncino<\/a>, all from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/buonitalia.com\/?v=7516fd43adaa\">Buon Italia.<\/a><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine was a really good Italian (Veneto) sparkling,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/sommariva-prosecco-di-conegliano-brut-nv\">Sommariva, Prosecco di Conegliano Brut, NV<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/\">Flatiron Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>There was a bit of an interval before we sat down for the main course, for the reason recounted above.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20770\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Kennebec.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>an overflowing cup of a mix of black oil-cured olives from Buon Italia and a few kalamata olives from Chelsea Whole Foods Market, all pits removed, spread on top of a bed of 3 large (8-ounce) scrubbed and thinly-sliced Kennebec potatoes from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, the slices slightly overlapping inside an enameled cast iron oven pan after the potatoes had first been seasoned\u00a0with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, sprinkled with a bit of crushed dried orange\/gold habanada pepper, and topped with\u00a017 dry Italian bay leaves, roasted in a very generous amount of olive oil (a third to half of a cup) inside a 400\u00ba oven for about 20 or 25 minutes, depending on the potato variety and their thickness, reversing the direction of the pan inside the oven halfway through, then 2 monkfish tails, each weighing a full pound, from Pura Vida Seafood Company in the Union Square Greenmarket, rinsed, halved, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, placed on top of the potatoes, roasted at the same temperature for, maybe, 20 minutes [I lost track of how long the monkfish cooked this time, so I couldn&#8217;t include the precise timing in this text],\u00a0arranged on 2 plates and garnished with micro red chard from two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20769\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/01\/Savoy_Norwich_2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>most of 2 beautiful small-to-medium Savoy cabbages from\u00a0Norwich Meadows Farm, washed, quartered, cored, sliced into one-half-inch ribbons, saut\u00e9ed in a scant tablespoon of olive oil inside a large enameled cast iron pot until wilted but still crunchy, stirring occasionally, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, a teaspoon and a half of just-toasted cumin seed mixed in, finished with a third to half of a teaspoon of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Columela-Year-Aged-Sherry-Vinegar\/dp\/B073WJBF1J\">Columela Rioja 30 Year Reserva sherry vinegar<\/a>, the mix stirred and cooked another couple of minutes (the cabbage was also patient about the delay in cooking the monkfish)<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a really wonderful Spanish (Priorat) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.astorwines.com\/SearchResultsSingle.aspx?p=1&amp;search=39415\">Priorat Blanco, Mas La Mola 2016<\/a>,\u00a0the generous gift of our guests<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The cheese course, unusually, had a little bit of everything: In addition to the 4 cheeses, there was bread, dried and fresh fruit, a micro green, and a good wine, so we lingered, also maybe a bit longer than usual.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>four cheeses: an unnamed washed rind buffalo milk cheese, like a Munster or havarti, a new cheese from Riverine Ranch, now in the process of development; Manchester goat cheese, Danby goat cheese, and\u00a0Bardem Blue cow cheese all from Consider Bardwell Farm<\/li>\n<li>a garnish of micro chervil from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<li>thin slices of an excellent crusty &#8216;table bread&#8217; from Philadelphia&#8217;s Lost Bread Company<\/li>\n<li>bosc and bartlett pears from Locust Grove Fruit Farm<\/li>\n<li>dried Calabrian (<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Amantea\">Amantea<\/a>) figs from Buon Italia in the Chelsea Market<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Spanish (Galicia) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/bodegas-avancia-godello-cuvee-de-o-2016\">Bodegas Avancia, Godello \u2018Cuvee De O\u2019 2016<\/a>, from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/\">Flatiron Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music throughout was our conversation, at one point including a discussion of our love for Mexico, which suggested playing the album, \u2018<a href=\"http:\/\/www.nonesuch.com\/albums\/mexico-fiestas-of-chiapas-and-oaxaca\">Mexico: Fiestas of Chiapas and Oaxaca<\/a>\u2018<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We were entertaining guests from Berlin, one of whom hadn&#8217;t been to our apartment for dinner before, at least while we were there (we had exchanged apartments for a month). Neither meat nor pasta could be on the menu.\u00a0I wanted to serve something which we would all appreciate, and which also would allow me to &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-20759","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20759","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=20759"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20759\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=20759"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=20759"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=20759"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}