{"id":20474,"date":"2018-12-31T02:47:18","date_gmt":"2018-12-31T02:47:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=20474"},"modified":"2018-12-31T02:47:18","modified_gmt":"2018-12-31T02:47:18","slug":"filetti-alici-leglefino-agrodolce-ai-funghi-di-cipolla-gelato","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=20474","title":{"rendered":"filetti alici; l&#8217;eglefino, agrodolce ai funghi di cipolla; gelato"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20527\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/alici.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Because it would simplify my work on the entr\u00e9e when we had guests, leaving me with more time to interact before we sat down to eat, I had hoped to pick up a large <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Striped_bass\">striped bass<\/a> fillet when I headed for the Union Square Greenmarket on Saturday, <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2017\/08\/28\/insalata-caprese-roasted-striper-lacinato-berries-n-cream\/\">as in this good dinner.<\/a> It didn&#8217;t happen: I had forgotten that this wasn&#8217;t the season for stripers, because of serious\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.dec.ny.gov\/outdoor\/7899.html\">conservation management directives<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>I had no fallback, so when I noticed that Phil Karlin himself was at his family&#8217;s fish stand, I told him I would be serving 4 people that night, and asked if he have a suggestion. &#8220;Get the haddock&#8221;, he replied, without a second&#8217;s hesitation.<\/p>\n<p>I got the haddock.<\/p>\n<p>Thanks Phil. It was superb.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>we celebrated before the meal itself with breadsticks and other crunchy things<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Spanish (Pened\u00e8s) sparkling ros\u00e9,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/raventos-i-blanc-conca-del-riu-anoia-rose-de-nit-2016\">Raventos i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia Rose &#8216;de Nit&#8217; 2016<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/\">Flatiron Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The meal began with\u00a0<em>filetti alici<\/em> marinate as <em>primi<\/em>, served on a large plate arranged in a pattern I hated to disturb.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>A 9-ounce package\u00a0of fresh marinated anchovies (It. <em>alici marinate<\/em>) from Buon Italia in Chelsea Market, the fillets, as they are packaged in sunflower oil, removed\u00a0from the container, laid\u00a0on top of paper towels on a large plate in order to drain, their top side gently dried with another paper towel, then carefully arranged on a second large plate, scattered with a little chopped Salinas, California parsley from Eataly, a bit of super-pungent\u00a0dried Sicilian\u00a0oregano from Buon Italia, and a bit of finely-chopped <a href=\"https:\/\/singerfarmnaturals.myshopify.com\/products\/organic-krasnodar-red\">Krasnodar red garlic<\/a>\u00a0from Quarton Farm, drizzled with Frankies 457 Sicilian\u00a0olive oil, the plate covered and set near a window where they remained at precisely 58\u00ba F (hey, I read somewhere that Italians love 58\u00ba F for their\u00a0<em>alici)<\/em>\u00a0for about an hour and a half or 2 hours, brought to the table and distributed onto the 4 plates (there were 33 anchovies, so 8 per person, one for the cook, to taste)<\/li>\n<li>the greens on the side included mix of wild cress and, in a very tiny form, a variation of cress crossed with shepherd&#8217;s purse, both from Lani&#8217;s Farm, a bit of &#8216;Rosa di Campo Rosso&#8217; radicchio from Campo Rosso Farm, and micro pea greens from Windfall Farms<\/li>\n<li>slices of a delicious\u00a0buckwheat baguette from Runner &amp; Stone Bakery<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Spanish (Galicia) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/bodegas-avancia-godello-cuvee-de-o-2016\">Bodegas Avancia, Godello &#8216;Cuvee De O&#8217; 2016<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/\">Flatiron Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20528\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/haddock_agrodolce.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The main course was a triumph.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>twelve or so cipolline onions from Norwich Meadows Farm, boiled for 5 minutes, drained, skinned, and the root ends cut off before 6\u00a0tablespoons of oil was heated inside a large antique heavy high-sided copper pot over medium-high heat, at which time the onions,\u00a0a pound of thickly-sliced shiitake mushrooms from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/hv-harvest.com\/Farms\/bulich-mushroom-co\/\">Bulich Mushroom Company<\/a>\u00a0in the Union Square Greenmarket, a good pinch of sea salt, and some freshly ground black pepper were added to the pot and stirred frequently\u00a0until the mushrooms had begun to soften and everything nicely browned (about 7 or 8 minutes), then 2 thirds of a cup of good Spanish Rioja wine vinegar added, the mix cooked, stirring, over medium high heat for about a minute, scraping up any browned bits stuck on the bottom, the pan removed from the heat and set aside while 2 large rectangular enameled steel oven pans were placed on top of the burners [if there had been only 2 fillets, the onions and mushrooms could have been prepared inside an oval copper au gratin pan, and removed to a bowl when done, the pan wiped clean and the haddock placed inside it], the flames turned high and four very very fresh 8-ounce haddock fillets from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood, skin on, already rubbed on both sides with 2 or 3\u00a0 tablespoons of olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper, added to the pan once it was very hot, skin side <em>up<\/em>, seared until a good brown crust had developed, or for about 3 minutes,\u00a0the fillets turned over and the reserved onions, mushrooms, and pan juices arranged <em>around<\/em> the fish, and not <em>on<\/em> it, everything scattered with many (24 small) fresh late-season rosemary branches\u00a0from Keith&#8217;s Farm, the pan placed inside a 400\u00ba oven and roasted for about 12 minutes or so [the original recipe, for 2 fillets, appears\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/howtofeedaloon.com\/seared-haddock-with-mushroom-agrodolce-sauce\/\">here<\/a>]<\/li>\n<li>the plate garnished with\u00a0micro red mustard from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a California (Central Coast\/Santa Ynez Valley) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/rick-boyer-coastal-white-blend-2017?cid=US\">Rick Boyer Santa Ynez Valley Dry White Blend 2017<\/a>, from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/full_site\">Naked Wines<\/a><br \/>\nby Rick Boyer<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The dessert represented the first time, and probably the last (I can&#8217;t find the maker active anywhere on line) that we would enjoy what was a certain really, really good gelato.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.specialtyfood.com\/products\/product\/27523\/baah-nilla-vanilla-goat-milk-gelato\/\">Victory Garden New York City goat milk gelato, &#8216;BAAH-NILLA! (vanilla), &#8216;classic and classy&#8217;<\/a>, which has a Carmine Street address, from Foragers Market<\/li>\n<li>&#8216;Nibblin&#8217; Nuggets of pure maple from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.roxburymountainmaple.com\/\">Roxbury Mountain Maple<\/a> in the Greenmarket<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>We remained at the table even after it had been cleared by the staff (the cook), sipping a Chicago whiskey we had discovered recently.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.astorwines.com\/SearchResultsSingle.aspx?search=30139\">Koval, a single barrel bourbon from a distillery in Chicago<\/a>, described as the first in the state since the nineteenth century, made with\u00a0organic grains (millet and corn) from a Midwest farmers&#8217; collective of small scale farms, water sourced from Lake Michigan, and aged in new American oak from Minnesota forests, from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.astorwines.com\/Default.aspx\">Astor Wines &amp; Spirits<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music throughout was (mostly) more live streaming of the awesome octonary\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.cc-seas.columbia.edu\/wkcr\/node\/21342\">WKCR Bachfest 2018<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Because it would simplify my work on the entr\u00e9e when we had guests, leaving me with more time to interact before we sat down to eat, I had hoped to pick up a large striped bass fillet when I headed for the Union Square Greenmarket on Saturday, as in this good dinner. It didn&#8217;t happen: &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-20474","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20474","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=20474"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20474\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=20474"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=20474"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=20474"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}