{"id":20387,"date":"2018-12-27T02:14:27","date_gmt":"2018-12-27T02:14:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=20387"},"modified":"2018-12-27T02:14:27","modified_gmt":"2018-12-27T02:14:27","slug":"lupini-wild-cress-cockles-tomato-fresh-sepia-chitarra","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=20387","title":{"rendered":"lupini, wild cress; cockles, tomato, fresh sepia chitarra"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20392\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/lupini_2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It was the eve of Christmas. A lot of people take this date very seriously. Italian-Americans, for instance, have a tradition called\u00a0<i lang=\"it\"><a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Feast_of_the_Seven_Fishes\">Festa dei sette pesci<\/a>. <\/i>I love real Italian food, and I tend to relate to it a lot in my cooking, although not the Italian-American version.<\/p>\n<p>I have never tried for 7 fishes on Christmas Eve, but I had friends in Rhode Island who did it every year, although sometimes stretching the definition of &#8216;fish&#8217;.<\/p>\n<p>I do however like the idea of fish on the night before Christmas; maybe it&#8217;s a throwback to my Catholic upbringing in the last century, or maybe it&#8217;s just out of a sense of proportion, since the day that follows is almost certainly to be a meat feast. This year I could\u00a0 have put <em>two<\/em>\u00a0&#8216;fishes&#8217; on the table, but neither of us ate any\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.katjes.com\/\"><em>Salzige Heringe<\/em><\/a> for dessert.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20427\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Salzige_Heringe.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We get these licorice &#8216;herring&#8217; at <a href=\"https:\/\/schallerweber.com\/brick-mortar\/new-york-store\/\">Schaller &amp; Weber<\/a>, a very, very northern Italian store.<\/p>\n<p>The evening began with a vegetarian appetizer.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>five ounces of fresh skinless cooked shelled <a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lupin_bean\">lupini beans<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\"> packaged in water from Eataly Flatiron, drained, placed inside a small bowl with the addition of some Whole Foods Market house Portuguese olive oil; chopped parsley from Paffenroth Farm; crushed dried <\/span><em style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">peperoncino Calabresi secchia<\/em><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\">\u00a0and a few pitted <\/span><a style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Gaeta\">Gaeta<\/a><span style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Oxygen-Sans, Ubuntu, Cantarell, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif;\"> olives, both from Buon Italia; sea salt; and black pepper<\/span><\/li>\n<li>wild cress from Lani&#8217;s Farm, drizzled with a bit of Frankies 457 Sicilian\u00a0olive oil and drops of juice from an organic Whole Foods Market lemon, seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and arranged on a plate as a thin bed for the beans<\/li>\n<li>a small medieval baguette from Bobolink Dairy and Bakery, torn into portions at the table<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The pasta course was also a fish course.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m not going to tell how far the the clams had to swim to get here, but they started in New Zealand.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20391\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/cockles_squid_ink_pasta.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The recipe I used on Monday, converted for using 30 cockles, or just under one pound, and adjusted for 12 ounces of fresh squid ink pasta, was &#8216;Spaghetti With Clams; adapted from Da Dora restaurant, Naples&#8217;.\u00a0 I had cut it from the December 8, 1999 New York Times, and I still have the old clipping, which is what I used as a reference, but I just found it <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/1999\/12\/08\/dining\/finding-its-voice-naples-sings-an-aria.html\">here on line.<\/a><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the ingredients I used were one pound of New Zealand cockles from Eataly Flatiron; 12 ounces of fresh squid ink chitarra pasta from Eataly Flatiron; 4\u00a0Backyard Farms Maine \u2018cocktail tomatoes\u2019 from Whole Foods Market; 5 cloves of <a href=\"https:\/\/singerfarmnaturals.myshopify.com\/products\/organic-krasnodar-red\">Krasnodar red garlic<\/a> from Quarton Farm in the Union Square Greenmarket; Whole Food Market house Portuguese olive oil; and, because I haven&#8217;t found any in the Union Square Greenmarket for some time, parsley\u00a0from Salinas, California, via Eataly (at least it didn&#8217;t have to come from New Zealand)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine throughout was a Spanish (Castilla y Le\u00f3n\/Bierzo) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/delectable.com\/wine\/bodegas-del-abad\/abad-dom-bueno-godello\/2014\">Abad Dom Bueno Godello 2016<\/a>,\u00a0from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.garnetwine.com\/sku02437.html\">Garnet Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music throughout was an album of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=3693\">Marc-Antoine Charpentier&#8217;s &#8216;Messe de minuit pour No\u00ebl&#8217; and his &#8216;No\u00ebls pour les instruments&#8217;,\u00a0William Christie directing Les Arts Florissants<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It was the eve of Christmas. A lot of people take this date very seriously. Italian-Americans, for instance, have a tradition called\u00a0Festa dei sette pesci. I love real Italian food, and I tend to relate to it a lot in my cooking, although not the Italian-American version. I have never tried for 7 fishes on &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-20387","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20387","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=20387"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/20387\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=20387"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=20387"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=20387"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}