{"id":18880,"date":"2018-09-08T01:54:27","date_gmt":"2018-09-08T01:54:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=18880"},"modified":"2018-09-08T01:54:27","modified_gmt":"2018-09-08T01:54:27","slug":"insalata-caprese-black-squid-ink-and-crab-pansotti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=18880","title":{"rendered":"insalata caprese; black squid ink and crab pansotti"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18897\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Caprese.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>There&#8217;s a reason the antipasto <em>insalata caprese <\/em>[Eng. Caprese salad, or the salad of Capri] has become legendary. It&#8217;s extraordinarily delicious when the ingredients are the best. Also,\u00a0mozzarella comes from the Campania region, as do, arguably, the best tomatoes in the world, and Capri has been a jewel off the coast of Campania for thousands of years.<\/p>\n<p>Last night for the first time I thought about the origin of this arrangement of such simple ingredients, and I posited that some hotel chef had probably come up with it in the 1920s or 30s.\u00a0 It seems I was right. An excerpt from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.italyheritage.com\/traditions\/food\/insalata-caprese.htm\">one account of the history<\/a> of the dish, with its reference to <i>the\u00a0<\/i>Italian art movement of the century, made it all more interesting than I had expected (even the Farouk anecdote which shows up on that site and elsewhere pales in comparison):<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;..the first historical mention is from the early 1920s when it appeared in the menu at the <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Grand_Hotel_Quisisana\">Hotel Quisisana<\/a> where <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Filippo_Tommaso_Marinetti\">Filippo Tommaso Marinetti<\/a>, founder of <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Futurism\">Futurism<\/a>, in the summer of 1924 raged against pasta calling it &#8216;outdated&#8217;.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&#8220;outdated&#8221;. Great.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18903\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Franca_toms_2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>an<em> insalata caprese<\/em>, here a spread of alternating layers of a house-made <em>mozzarella classica<\/em> from Eataly, slice heirloom tomatoes from Berried Treasures Farm, and whole leaves of <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Genovese_basil\">Genoa basil\u00a0<\/a>from Windfall Farm, sprinkled with Maldon salt and coarsely-ground black pepper, drizzled with a great Campania olive oil (Lamparelli O.R.O.)<\/li>\n<li>slices of a She Wolf Bakery miche<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18898\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/squid_crab_pansotti.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I had spotted the black pansotti in the display case the day before. It was beautiful. I knew I wanted to have it, to serve it, but I was already had fish for dinner that night in my bag, so I went back the next day.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18904\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/squid_ink_pansotti.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>squid ink pansotti, with a filling of mascarpone, scallion, and lump crab meat, from\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pastaioluca.com\/\">Luca Donofrio<\/a>\u2018s fresh pasta\u00a0shop inside\u00a0Eataly\u2019s Flatiron store, cooked very briefly, served with a sauce made by gently heating 2 Keith&#8217;s Farm rocambole garlic cloves in a little olive oil inside a heavy antique, high-sided coper pot until they had softened and become fragrant, adding a fresh medium size <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2017\/02\/28\/the-habanada-pepper-fresh-and-dried-two-ways\/\">habanada pepper<\/a>, sliced, near the end, stirring it with the pansotti for no more than a minute, then introducing the drained pasta and some of the reserved pasta water, cooking over a medium-high flame until the liquid had emulsified, a teaspoon or so of pink peppercorns tossed in and stirred, the mix arranged in shallow bowls, a little olive oil drizzled around the edges, garnished with red micro mustard from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine throughout was an Italian (Campania\/Ischia) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.garnetwine.com\/sku01496.html\">Casa d&#8217;Ambra Ischia Bianco 2017<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.garnetwine.com\/\">Garnet Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music throughout the meal was mostly the album, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/dp\/B00JPW622E\/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=hoggardwagner-20&amp;linkId=24e6e3de5ca9e4468b17b05bf760b390&amp;language=en_US\">&#8216;Martin\u016f: Cello Sonatas Nos. 1-3&#8217;<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>There&#8217;s a reason the antipasto insalata caprese [Eng. Caprese salad, or the salad of Capri] has become legendary. It&#8217;s extraordinarily delicious when the ingredients are the best. Also,\u00a0mozzarella comes from the Campania region, as do, arguably, the best tomatoes in the world, and Capri has been a jewel off the coast of Campania for thousands &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-18880","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18880","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=18880"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/18880\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=18880"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=18880"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=18880"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}