{"id":15757,"date":"2018-02-12T02:29:48","date_gmt":"2018-02-12T02:29:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=15757"},"modified":"2018-02-12T02:29:48","modified_gmt":"2018-02-12T02:29:48","slug":"truffle-ravioli-veal-riblets-braised-with-brussels-sprouts-with","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=15757","title":{"rendered":"truffle ravioli; mustard-braised veal ribs; Brussels sprouts"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15758\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/truffle_ravioli.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It was Friday afternoon.\u00a0While\u00a0returning from the Union Square Greenmarket with a fine haddock fillet inside my insulated bag,\u00a0which I would cook for dinner that night, I stopped by our local Eataly Market for\u00a0something incidental. I had already decided that on the next day I would cook\u00a0some veal riblets which were waiting for us in the freezer compartment, but when\u00a0I spotted the black truffle ravioli in Luca Donofrio\u2019s\u00a0<em>pastificio<\/em>, I knew I had to\u00a0find room for it in the schedule somewhere.<\/p>\n<p>We were both lucky that the space I found described\u00a0this\u00a0simple <em>primi<\/em>\u00a0I prepared to introduce the complexities of the main course, because if I had been tempted to add more\u00a0elements to the ravioli, the subtleties of the noble fungus would have been lost.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>eight and a half\u00a0ounces of<em>\u00a0<\/em>small fresh<em>\u00a0<\/em>ravioli (with a filling of ricotta, fresh black truffle, and porcini mushroom)\u00a0from\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pastaioluca.com\/\">Luca Donofrio<\/a>\u2018s fresh pasta\u00a0shop inside\u00a0Eataly\u2019s Flatiron,\u00a0briefly\u00a0boiled, then, a cup of the pasta water reserved, drained and immediately slipped into a vintage medium size, high-sided tin-lined copper pan in which 3 tablespoons of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.organicvalley.coop\/products\/butter\/pasture-butter\/\">Organic Valley \u2018Cultured Pasture Butter\u2019<\/a>\u00a0(with 12 grams of fat) had been melted, then seasoned with freshly-ground black pepper, portions divided into two shallow warm bowls, where the past was garnished with micro mint from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The main course\u00a0was\u00a0already\u00a0cooking on and inside the ancient Magic Chef when we sat down to the <em>primi<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15759\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/02\/veal_riblets__B_sprouts.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2016\/11\/22\/mustard-braised-veal-ribs-roasted-radicchio-minutina\/\">The 1990\u00a0recipe<\/a>\u00a0I followed was essentially the same one I had used once before,\u00a0\u2018<a href=\"http:\/\/articles.latimes.com\/1990-08-16\/food\/fo-885_1_veal-riblets\">Country Mustard Braised Veal Riblets<\/a>\u2018, and had found on the\u00a0Los Angeles Times site.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>I halved the original recipe,\u00a0but otherwise changed very little, merely adding a little of a very complex\u00a0Nigerian cayenne pepper to\u00a0the smoked Spanish piment\u00f3n &#8216;pikant&#8217; specified, introducing 5 or 6 rosemary sprigs to the mix, and substituting a little local apple vinegar for the apple juice\u00a0called for,\u00a0and which I did not have on hand; the ingredients I used, and their sources, were: local whole wheat flour from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.escapemontclair.com\/farmer-friday-oak-grove-plantation\/\">the Blew family of Oak Grove Mills<\/a>\u00a0in the Union Square Greenmarket; 5 or 6 rosemary sprigs rosemary from Stokes Farm; 20 ounces of veal rib (6 ribs) from Tony, of Consider Bardwell Farm; a very sturdy dark mustard (Maille Old Style Whole Grain Dijon Mustard); a medium onion\u00a0from Norwich Meadows Farm; 3 tablespoons of local apple vinegar from Race Farm; organic lemon juice from Whole Foods Market, a bit of Linden blossom honey from Tremblay Apiaries;\u00a0zest from the Whole Foods organic lemon, garnished with micro red chard from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<li>Brussels sprouts from Phillips Farms,\u00a0washed, trimmed, dried, tossed with olive oil, sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, and several whole unpeeled Rocambole garlic cloves from Keith;s Farm, roasted in a 400\u00ba oven on a\u00a0small unglazed Pampered Chef oven pan until they were browned and crisp on the outside, or for about 20 minutes, drizzled as they came out of the oven with a little bit of warmed (to protect the hot ceramic pan) balsamic vinegar<\/li>\n<li>the wine was\u00a0a great Italian (Piedmont) red,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/flatiron-wines.com\/roagna-barbera-d-alba-2012\">Roagna, Barbera d\u2019Alba, 2012<\/a>, the generous gift of a friend<\/li>\n<li>the music was from two very different eras (Louis\u00a0XIIIe and Napoleon 1er, but performed by the same ensemble: through much of the meal, it was an album of French instrumental court music from 1601\u00a0to 1650, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.alia-vox.com\/cataleg\/lorchestre-de-louis-xiii\/\">&#8216;L&#8217;Orchestre de Louis XIII 1601-1643&#8217;, performed by Jordi Savall and\u00a0<em>Le Concert des Nations<\/em><\/a> \u00a0(&#8220;Ces musiques de cour aux saveurs populaires, toujours imaginatives et color\u00e9es, sont \u00e0 la recherche constante de souplesse et de gr\u00e2ce, de grandeur et d\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance.&#8221; &#8211; Savall); after a pause, this was followed by a very spirited performance of\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.alia-vox.com\/en\/catalogue\/ludwig-van-beethoven-sinfonia-eroica-coriolan-ouverture\/\">Beethoven&#8217;s third symphony, &#8216;Eroica&#8217;, also performed by Jordi Savall and <em>Le Concert des Nations<\/em><\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It was Friday afternoon.\u00a0While\u00a0returning from the Union Square Greenmarket with a fine haddock fillet inside my insulated bag,\u00a0which I would cook for dinner that night, I stopped by our local Eataly Market for\u00a0something incidental. I had already decided that on the next day I would cook\u00a0some veal riblets which were waiting for us in the &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15757","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15757","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=15757"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15757\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=15757"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=15757"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=15757"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}