{"id":15262,"date":"2018-01-11T00:58:53","date_gmt":"2018-01-11T00:58:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=15262"},"modified":"2018-01-11T00:58:53","modified_gmt":"2018-01-11T00:58:53","slug":"culotte-steak-celeriacpaprika-frites-cumin-cabbage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=15262","title":{"rendered":"culotte steak; celeriac\/paprika frites; cumin cabbage"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15265\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/culotte_steak.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s possible\u00a0my memory is blurred, but until I can be persuaded otherwise, I&#8217;m going to say this\u00a0was\u00a0<em>the best steak I&#8217;d ever had<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>The cut itself (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.gq.com\/story\/the-unconsidered-cut-3\">called &#8216;culotte&#8217; here, &#8216;coulotte&#8217; in France, &#8216;picanha&#8217; in Brazil<\/a>) has become my favorite, certainly for its flavor\u00a0but also for the kind of chewiness I\u00a0enjoy in good beef; &#8216;melt in your mouth&#8217; is not\u00a0what I look for.<\/p>\n<p>Adding to its\u00a0attractions is the fact it\u00a0seems to come\u00a0with a\u00a0consistency in size, and, because <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2016\/01\/16\/culotte-steak-braised-kales-roasted-baby-carrots-parsley\/\">I&#8217;ve been instructed in\u00a0a\u00a0routine<\/a> which brings it to our preferred degree of doneness (more medium than medium-rare, with this particularly lean cut), there&#8217;s little anxiety about the cooking process, since it seems to come our perfectly each time, letting me\u00a0pay more\u00a0attention\u00a0preparing the side dishes, even shortly before serving.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">*<\/span> one 20-ounce culotte steak from Gabe, of Sun Fed Beef (Maple Avenue Farms) in the Union Square Greenmarket,\u00a0cut crosswise into\u00a02 pieces, brought to room temperature, seasoned on all sides with good sea salt and freshly-ground\u00a0black pepper, seared briefly on the top, the fat side (almost half of the fat will be rendered in the cooking, the rest will make it taste wonderful), then cooked for about 4 minutes\u00a0on each side, before the bottom side was seared briefly, removed from the pan, and placed on warm plates, drizzled with juice from an organic Whole Foods Market lemon and\u00a0some olive oil, sprinkled with chopped winter savory from Stokes Farm and allowed to rest for about 4 minutes, garnished with Micro red amaranth from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15278\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/celeriac-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">*<\/span> roughly\u00a010 ounces of celery root from Norwich Meadows Farm, combined with 2 small &#8216;Peter Wilcox&#8217; white-fleshed purple potatoes from Windfall Farms to make up about 3 quarters of a pound in total, since I had used\u00a0a bit\u00a0of the celeriac in an earlier meal,\u00a0scrubbed, peeled, and cut into the size and shape of potato<em>\u00a0frites<\/em>, tossed in a bowl with olive oil, a half teaspoon of Spanish paprika\u00a0<em>picante<\/em>, a small crushed section of an orange\/gold <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=habanada+pepper\">habanada pepper<\/a>, sea salt, and freshly-ground pepper, spread out onto a medium-size Pampered Chef unglazed ceramic pan, roasted at 400\u00ba until brown, crispy on the edges, and cooked through<\/li>\n<li>one very small head of Savoy cabbage from Tamarack Hollow Farm, washed, quartered, cored, sliced into one-half-inch ribbons,\u00a0saut\u00e9ed in a scant tablespoon of olive oil inside a\u00a0medium heavy, tin-lined copper pot\u00a0until\u00a0wilted but still crunchy, stirring occasionally,\u00a0 seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, a little more than a teaspoon of toasted cumin seed, added to the\u00a0cabbage and mixed in, finished with half a teaspoon of Columela Rioja 30 Year Reserva sherry vinegar, stirred and cooked another\u00a0couple minutes<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Spanish (Duero) red,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.vivino.com\/wineries\/bodegas-gormaz\/wines\/joven-ribera-del-duero-2013\">Bodegas Gormaz Joven, Ribera del Duero 2013,<\/a> from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.philippeliquorsnyc.com\/\">Philippe Liquors<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=2260368\">Bohislav Martin\u00fc\u2019s Symphony No. 4, Cornelius Meister conducting the Vienna Radio Symphony Orchestra<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It&#8217;s possible\u00a0my memory is blurred, but until I can be persuaded otherwise, I&#8217;m going to say this\u00a0was\u00a0the best steak I&#8217;d ever had. The cut itself (called &#8216;culotte&#8217; here, &#8216;coulotte&#8217; in France, &#8216;picanha&#8217; in Brazil) has become my favorite, certainly for its flavor\u00a0but also for the kind of chewiness I\u00a0enjoy in good beef; &#8216;melt in your &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15262","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15262","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=15262"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15262\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=15262"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=15262"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=15262"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}