{"id":15013,"date":"2017-12-24T00:06:05","date_gmt":"2017-12-24T00:06:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=15013"},"modified":"2017-12-24T00:06:05","modified_gmt":"2017-12-24T00:06:05","slug":"oysters-herb-marinated-john-dory-lacinato-satsumas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=15013","title":{"rendered":"oysters; herb-marinated John Dory; lacinato; Satsumas"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15018\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/two_oysters.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>When I opened the sealed plastic bag that held the John Dory fillets, I was immediately\u00a0overwhelmed by the same intoxicating scent of the briny sea that accompanies the very freshest oysters; the\u00a0fish was that\u00a0fresh.<\/p>\n<p>A little bit of\u00a0background:<\/p>\n<p>Because of what we had already scheduled for early in the evening, I wasn&#8217;t going to have much time to prepare a meal Friday night, but I still wanted the two of us to enjoy a good meal. So when I arrived at the Pura Vida stand\u00a0in the Greenmarket in Union Square I was certain that the silvery-skinned John Dory fillets I saw would be all I needed, along with maybe some kind of fresh greens. Paul, standing on the other side of the fish cases, obviously didn&#8217;t agree,\u00a0as he\u00a0wouldn&#8217;t accept my negative reply to his usual query, &#8220;anything else?&#8221; He suggested I needed some oysters as an appetizer, but I explained we wouldn&#8217;t have time for a first course, and, besides, I&#8217;d\u00a0have to schedule a pause in the\u00a0middle\u00a0of the meal to allow time for me to open and plate the silver-bedded bivalves. He had a solution: &#8220;Your partner knows how to open them, right?&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Now I couldn&#8217;t fault\u00a0his argument, so I brought the oysters home, comforted a little by the fact that there were only 4 left on the ice inside the tub: How\u00a0long could it take\u00a0to open and serve 4 oysters?\u00a0Once I arrived home\u00a0I decided it would be easier for me to\u00a0shuck the oysters myself, since the kitchen work area really can&#8217;t easily accommodate 2 people, and I had also quickly realized I could prepare in advance everything needed to cook\u00a0the John Dory, so there really wouldn&#8217;t be a significant pause\u00a0after all.<\/p>\n<p>It didn&#8217;t take long at all, and the meal was just about perfect.<\/p>\n<p>Early in the evening, even before I had started working on it, I was unable to resist tweeting, &#8220;tonight\u2019s dinner will star 4 silvery oysters and 4 silvery John Dory fillets&#8221;, and now I can say it actually happened, and that both the <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Oyster\"><em>Ostreidae<\/em><\/a> and the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/John_Dory\"><em>Zeus faber<\/em><\/a> were definitely stars.<\/p>\n<p>And so was the sweet winter <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lacinato_kale\"><em>lacinato<\/em>, or <em>cavolo nero<\/em><\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15019\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/lacinato.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">*<\/span> four iced Great South Bay oysters from Pure Vida Seafood<\/li>\n<li><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">*<\/span> a bit of wild cress from Lani&#8217;s Farm, dressed with a very good Sicilian olive oil, from from Agricento, Azienda Agricola Mandranova (exclusively Nocellara olives), a drizzle\u00a0of juice from an organic Whole Foods Market lemon, Maldon sea salt, and freshly-ground black pepper<\/li>\n<li>slices of a classic baguette from Bread Alone<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[slight pause here]<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15021\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/John_Dory_tomato_lacinato.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><span style=\"color: #ff0000;\">*<\/span> four John Dory fillets caught off eastern Long Island, from Pura Vida Seafood, marinated inside the refrigerator for about 30 minutes\u00a0in a mix of half a clove of crushed Rocambole garlic from Keith&#8217;s Farm. one teaspoon or more of chopped thyme from Stokes Farm, the juice and zest from roughly a quarter of a Whole Foods Market organic lemon, half a teaspoon of walnut oil, sea salt, and freshly-ground black pepper, removed from the refrigerator and allowed to come to room temperature, placed, skin-side down first, inside a large heavy, tin-lined copper skillet that had been heated over medium-high heat with enough olive oil to coat the surface, the heat then reduced slightly and the fillets cooked for just 2 minutes on each side, removed and arranged on\u00a0warm plates, sprinkled with a bit of micro wasabi from Two Guys from\u00a0Woodbridge<\/li>\n<li>two\u00a0Backyard Farms Maine \u2018cocktail tomatoes\u2019 from Whole Foods Market, halved, the cut sides placed on a plate sprinkled\u00a0\u00a0with a little sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, then heated on both sides in a little olive oil inside a 19th-century enameled cast iron porringer, removed and arranged next to the John Dory, sprinkled with a little chopped thyme that had not been\u00a0used\u00a0in the marinade<\/li>\n<li>one bunch of <em>lacinato<\/em> kale (aka\u00a0<em>cavalo nero<\/em>, black cabbage, or Tuscan cabbage) from Norwich Meadows Farm,\u00a0wilted briefly in\u00a0olive oil\u00a0in which one clove of Rocambole garlic from Keith\u2019s Farm had first been heated until pungent, a bit of dried peperoncino Calabresi secchi from Buon Italia added at the end, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper and drizzled with a little more oil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine through\u00a0the first two courses was a California (Napa) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/products\/la-tapatia-chardonnay-carneros-2016\">La Tapatia Chardonnay Carneros 2016<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/full_site\">Naked Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The dessert was definitely the simplest\u00a0of the courses.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15022\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/satsuma.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Satsuma mandarins from Whole Foods Market<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music throughout was the album, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Violoncello-ARIBERT-REIMANN\/dp\/B000ESMC9U\">&#8216;Per Violoncello&#8217;<\/a>, all of the music of Aribert Reimann for cello (as of the 2005 recording date), plus his &#8216;Drei Klavierstucke&#8217;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>When I opened the sealed plastic bag that held the John Dory fillets, I was immediately\u00a0overwhelmed by the same intoxicating scent of the briny sea that accompanies the very freshest oysters; the\u00a0fish was that\u00a0fresh. A little bit of\u00a0background: Because of what we had already scheduled for early in the evening, I wasn&#8217;t going to have &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15013","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15013","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=15013"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15013\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=15013"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=15013"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=15013"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}