{"id":14913,"date":"2017-12-15T08:22:58","date_gmt":"2017-12-15T08:22:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=14913"},"modified":"2017-12-15T08:22:58","modified_gmt":"2017-12-15T08:22:58","slug":"lemon-herb-trout-horseradish-potatoes-lovage-greens","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=14913","title":{"rendered":"lemon-herb trout, horseradish; potatoes, lovage; greens"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14917\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/trout_potatoes_radish_greens.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>(from the oven, skin partially pulled back\u00a0to accept some grated horseradish)<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I\u00a0don&#8217;t know why\u00a0I\u00a0haven&#8217;t prepared fresh trout in\u00a0such a long time, unless I was just waiting to teach myself how to butterfly them, in order to solve the potential bone problem (I haven&#8217;t learned yet). M any cooks disdain\u00a0trout unless it is caught wild, and probably for a good reason an indifferent product, with little taste. I don&#8217;t have that excuse however: We have access to a wonderful\u00a0source in Dave Harris, who owns <a href=\"http:\/\/newyork.seriouseats.com\/2010\/09\/market-scene-profiles-max-creek-hatchery.ht\">Max Creek Hatchery<\/a> in East Meredith, way upstate, near Oneonta, and he basically pulls into\u00a0our backyard\u00a0once a week (well, into the Union Square Greenmarket, which I do consider our greater backyard).<\/p>\n<p>We began the meal with a small crudit\u00e9, served on the kitchen counter by the breadbox.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14931\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/Breakfast_radish_crudite.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>a few French small French breakfast radishes from Eckerton Hill Farm, scrubbed and trimmed,\u00a0but with a portion of stem left on [almost] all of them, to make it easier for dipping into a small dish of Maldon salt<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>This is what the trout looked like\u00a0just before they went into the oven, with eyes shining and rainbows still glowing.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14943\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/12\/trout_gratin_pan.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>two\u00a0very, very fresh whole rainbow trout from Max Creek Hatchery, gutted and cleaned, placed inside an oiled tin-lined copper <em>au gratin<\/em> pan, seasoned inside and out with sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper, the cavities stuffed with\u00a0sprigs of herbs (thyme from Stokes Farm and\u00a0parsley from Norwich Meadows Farm) and lined with thin slices of one organic Whole Foods Market lemon, then drizzled with a little more olive oil, and roasted for about\u00a0for 15 or 20 mins, or until the fish is cooked through\u00a0(the eyes\u00a0turn\u00a0white and the flesh becomes soft to the touch), removed from the oven, the skin on the top side of each pulled back and fresh horseradish root from\u00a0Gorzynski Ornery Farm grated on top before serving, with additional horseradish placed on the table<\/li>\n<li>the greens from 2\u00a0bunches of French Breakfast radishes (a few\u00a0of which we had just nibbled on) which had been removed from their roots, to better preserve both roots and leaves, the moment they had arrived from the Greenmarket this week, barely wilted\u00a0inside a medium-size heavy, high-sided tin-lined copper pan in a little olive oil in which\u00a0one bruised and halved Rocambole garlic clove from Keith&#8217;s Farm had first been allowed to sweat and just begin to color, the greens seasoned with sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, a\u00a0very small\u00a0part of one crushed dried dried <em>peperoncino Calabresi secchi<\/em> from Buon Italia, arranged on the plates with\u00a0a little more olive oil drizzled on top<\/li>\n<li>tiny &#8216;Red Gold&#8217; potatoes from Keith&#8217;s Farm, scrubbed, skins left on, boiled inside\u00a0a large vintage Corning\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ndga.net\/articles\/gmflameware.php\">Pyrex Flameware<\/a>\u00a0blue-glass\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ebay.com\/itm\/VIntage-Pyrex-6-Piece-Blue-Tint-Flameware-Stovetop-Pans-Removeable-Handles-\/111577304599\">pot<\/a>\u00a0with a generous amount of salt until barely cooked through, drained, dried in the same container while it and they were still-warm, tossed with a tablespoon or so of olive oil, sprinkled with sea salt, freshly-ground black pepper, and chopped lovage from Keith\u2019s Farm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine throughout the meal was a German (Rheinhessen) sparkling white,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.fritzmueller.fm\/perlwein.php\">Fritz M\u00fcller Perlwein<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was the album, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=1345282\">&#8216;El Maestro Farinelli&#8217;<\/a>, instrumental and vocal music associated with <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Farinelli\">Farinelli<\/a>,\u00a0including compositions by\u00a0Nicola Conforto, Jos\u00e9 Nebra, Nicolo Porpora, Johann Adolf Hasse,\u00a0Carl Philipp Emmanuel Bach,\u00a0Francesco Corradini, Juan Marcolini,\u00a0Niccol\u00f2 Jommelli, and\u00a0Tommaso Traetta,\u00a0\u00a0with Countertenor Bejun Mehta, and Pablo Heras-Casado conducting the Concerto Cologne<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>(from the oven, skin partially pulled back\u00a0to accept some grated horseradish) &nbsp; I\u00a0don&#8217;t know why\u00a0I\u00a0haven&#8217;t prepared fresh trout in\u00a0such a long time, unless I was just waiting to teach myself how to butterfly them, in order to solve the potential bone problem (I haven&#8217;t learned yet). M any cooks disdain\u00a0trout unless it is caught wild, &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14913","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14913","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14913"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14913\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14913"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14913"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14913"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}