{"id":14252,"date":"2017-09-12T17:23:01","date_gmt":"2017-09-12T17:23:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=14252"},"modified":"2017-09-12T17:23:01","modified_gmt":"2017-09-12T17:23:01","slug":"flounder-with-sage-habanada-scallion-flat-beans-savory","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=14252","title":{"rendered":"flounder with sage, habanada, scallion; flat beans, savory"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14253\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/flounder_yellow_Romano.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Brown butter.<\/p>\n<p>The first appearance of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2002\/02\/27\/dining\/firing-up-butter-to-a-new-level.html\">brown butter<\/a>, long ago, was probably\u00a0the result of an accident, like so many\u00a0wonderful things &#8211; of all kinds &#8211; that we enjoy and take for granted. Last night it was an accident again, a very local accident.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;ve cooked flounder using the\u00a0recipe I used yesterday more than once, but this time it came with a twist, a serendipity. The next time\u00a0it appears it\u00a0won&#8217;t be a fluke.<\/p>\n<p>It started when\u00a0I placed some butter inside an enameled pan above a low flame, intending only to melt it, but then I stepped away, and when I looked back it had started to color, somewhat alarmingly. Fortunately the pan itself was not black, but a light tan, so\u00a0I could see\u00a0what was happening and catch it just in time (the butter wasn&#8217;t black and had no burnt taste), so I\u00a0decided I&#8217;d go with it.<\/p>\n<p>The result\u00a0was extraordinary, in both common meanings of the word.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>six small flounder fillets (just under one pound together) from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood,\u00a0seasoned with salt and pepper on both sides, coated lightly with well-seasoned flour (I used\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/ncfarms.net\/\">North Country Farms Stone Ground Whole Wheat Flour<\/a>), then submerged in a shallow bowl containing a mixture of one pullet egg from Millport Dairy, a little whole milk, and a pinch of salt, allowed to stay submerged until the vegetable had been cooked and the remaining ingredients for the fish prepared, then removed from the bowl, placed inside a heavy enameled cast iron pan on top of\u00a03 tablespoons of butter <em>that had been melted and allowed to\u00a0brown<\/em>,\u00a0several\u00a0halved large fresh\u00a0sage leaves from Phillips Farm, one section of a dried, crushed orange\/golden\u00a0dried <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=habanada+pepper\">habanada pepper<\/a> from Norwich Meadows Farm, and\u00a0one sliced ruddy scallion (the &#8216;Scarlet Scallion&#8217;, a Japanese heirloom) from Norwich Meadows Farm (including some of the green section), saut\u00e9ed over a brisk flame until golden, about\u00a02 1\/2 minutes on the first side, 1 1\/2 minutes on the second,\u00a0sprinkled with some juice of an organic lemon from Whole Foods Market, transferred onto warm plates, some chopped parsley from\u00a0S. &amp; S.O. Farm scattered on top<\/li>\n<li>a good sized serving of yellow Romano beans from Norwich Meadows Farm, parboiled in salted water for a few minutes, drained, dried inside the same pot over a medium flame while shaking them, reheated, as the fish was being saut\u00e9d, in melted butter inside a heavy tin-lined copper\u00a0pan, tossed with chopped summer savory from\u00a0Ryder Farm, seasoned with salt and pepper [the beans had cooked\u00a0longer than I normally would, but they were still delicious, and I\u00a0remember that in Italy, unaccountably, vegetables are generally cooked much longer than I ever do]<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Spanish (Galicia, Rias Baixas) white,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/vinergia.com\/?page_id=416\">Campos de Celtas Albari\u00f1o<\/a> 2015, from Manley\u2019s Wine &amp; Spirits in the West Village<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>There was a dessert, a simple fruit serving.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14256\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/melon_blackberries.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Asian melon from Norwich Meadows Farm, a couple of blackberries from Locust Grove Orchards, and a pinch of turbinado sugar, for the\u00a0crunch, and to sweeten the berries<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music through out the meal was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.deccaclassics.com\/us\/cat\/4676992\">Rameau&#8217;s 1741 &#8216;<em>Six Concerts en Sextuor Les Talens Lyriques<\/em>&#8216;, performed by\u00a0Les Talens Lyriques, directed by Christophe Rousset<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Brown butter. The first appearance of brown butter, long ago, was probably\u00a0the result of an accident, like so many\u00a0wonderful things &#8211; of all kinds &#8211; that we enjoy and take for granted. Last night it was an accident again, a very local accident. I&#8217;ve cooked flounder using the\u00a0recipe I used yesterday more than once, but &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14252","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14252","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14252"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14252\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14252"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14252"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14252"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}