{"id":13546,"date":"2017-07-26T01:18:20","date_gmt":"2017-07-26T01:18:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=13546"},"modified":"2017-07-26T01:18:20","modified_gmt":"2017-07-26T01:18:20","slug":"whelk-salad-flounder-with-tomato-butter-romano-beans","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=13546","title":{"rendered":"whelk salad; flounder with tomato butter; romano beans"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13552\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/whelk_salad.JPG.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It was one of those times when I left\u00a0the meal\u00a0without a decent image of it. I still wanted to write something, so I decided to upload\u00a0images of the 2 main ingredients that I might find on line, as a fallback, something I had occasionally done in the past. Then I learned that one of our guests had snapped a\u00a0picture of the more unusual course, a whelk salad, and this is what you see above.<\/p>\n<p>If the plate looks a little spare, it&#8217;s because it is a little spare. I now know that 12 ounces of raw whelks do not equal 12 ounces after they are cooked. Four days earlier I had assembled ingredients similar to the ones I used here, purchasing 5 ounces, enough for two servings, but using whelks already cooked. Yesterday\u00a0I had started with 12 ounces, thinking that would be enough for 4, but unaware of the shrinkage that would give me far less than the equivalent serving of the mollusks after\u00a0I had cooked them.<\/p>\n<p>Next time I&#8217;ll be better prepared, and there will definitely be a next time; this is a great dish, and I&#8217;m going to want to find other ways to use a\u00a0shellfish so under-appreciated in its own natural environment.<\/p>\n<p>The main course was a dish I&#8217;ve <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=flounder+tomato\">prepared many times<\/a>, although it never seem to look or taste the same.\u00a0The recipe\u00a0is a bit tricky when you have to cook enough for 4\u00a0people (especially if when I\u00a0bring home a little more fish\u00a0than I actually have to). I solved the immediate problem of the limited area of the largest enameled pan I had by cutting each half of the 2 fillets in half crosswise. It worked perfectly; it also made turning and transferring the delicate flounder much easier.<\/p>\n<p>last night&#8217;s version of &#8216;flounder with tomato butter&#8217; was as delicious as it was beautiful to look at: The fish was perfectly golden, and the mixed-size tomatoes were very colorful, giving me more reason to regret my failure behind the camera.<\/p>\n<p>Still, there is compensation: I get to use this extraordinary 1978\u00a0G\u00fcnther Grass etching, &#8216;<em>Mann im Butt<\/em>&#8216; (Man in Flounder), in lieu of some\u00a0dumb photo. [cf. &#8216;<a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=The+FLounder+Grass\">saut\u00e9ed flounder; asparagus, ramps; potato, savory<\/a>&#8216;]<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13560\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/flounder_Grass.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"516\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The flounder wasn&#8217;t on its own: There were tomatoes.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13566\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/miniature_tomatoes.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The meal began with some Mario Fongo whole wheat and black rice <em>grissini<\/em>\u00a0from Buon Italia.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine with the breadsticks was a California (Sonoma) sparkling white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/w-donaldson-rose-2014.htm\">W. Donaldson Rose 2014<\/a>, from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/\">Naked Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The first course was a conch salad.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>twelve ounces of raw channel whelks (3) from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood (a mollusk which is\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ediblevineyard.com\/index.php\/stories\/article\/whelk1\">described here<\/a>), boiled slowly in unsalted water for 2 hours (I&#8217;m not convinced they had to be cooked that long, but that&#8217;s what I was told), removed, drained, the 3\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Operculum_(gastropod)\">operculum<\/a>\u00a0removed, cooled, sliced thinly, mixed in a bowl with\u00a0some finely-sliced fresh spring shallots from Alewife Farm, minced garlic from\u00a0Norwich Meadows Farm, crushed dried p<em>epperoncino Calabresi secchi<\/em>\u00a0from Buon Italia, olive oil, juice from an organic lemon from Whole Foods Market, a\u00a0bit of\u00a0Columela Rioja 30 Year Reserva sherry vinegar, a few chopped stems of\u00a0baby fennel bulbs from Alewife Farm, chopped mint and summer savory from Stokes Farm, chopped parsley\u00a0from Norwich Meadows Farm,\u00a0tarragon from Keith&#8217;s Farm, a bit of sea salt, and Freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper, the served on flat plates on top of leaves of two kinds of purple-leaf salad lettuce, a purple frizzy oak leaf lettuce from Norwich Meadows Farm and a bibb lettuce purple leaf lettuce from Eckerton Hill Farm, everything finished with a drizzle of olive oil<\/li>\n<li>accompanied by slices of a French-style organic whole wheat and whole spelt miche from Bread Alone in the Union Square Greenmarket<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine with the whelk salad was\u00a0a beautiful French (Savoy) white,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/philippe-sylvain-ravier-vin-de-savoie-les-abymes-2015#.WW2Bm4UpCaM\">Philippe &amp; Sylvain Ravier Vin de Savoie Les Abymes 2015<\/a>, from\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/\">Chelsea Wine Vault<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The main course followed, after a decent interval determined entirely by the labors of the cook in the kitchen.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>two flounder fillets (totaling 25 ounces) from P.E. &amp; D. D. Seafood, lightly\u00a0seasoned, the halves of each each separated and each of those cut in half crosswise, making 8 pieces in all, cooked over high heat with the flesh side down for several minutes (4?) in a mixture of olive oil and butter inside a heavy enameled rectangular cast iron pan, turning once and continuing for another 2\u00a0minutes or so, arranged on the plates, a couple of spoonfuls of \u00a0\u2018tomato butter\u2019 [see below]\u00a0arranged mostly between the 2 sections of fish, finished with a\u00a0garnish of micro nasturtiums leaves from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<li>tomato butter, begun\u00a0by cooking one finely-chopped small fresh shallot\u00a0from Alewife\u00a0Farm\u00a0inside a small pan with 3\u00a0or 4\u00a0tablespoons\u00a0of melted butter until the shallot was slightly soft and fragrant, the flavored butter cool slightly before poured over 6 or 7 ounces of a mix in size and color\u00a0of miniature tomatoes, some left whole, others cut in halves or thirds, adding 2\u00a0tablespoons of genoves basil from Windfall Farms, a few drops of good Spanish Rioja wine vinegar, the mix seasoned with salt, set aside and kept warm until ready to be arranged\u00a0on the flounder<\/li>\n<li>a combination of green and yellow Romano beans from Norwich Meadows Farm, parboiled for a few minutes, drained, dried, reheated in olive oil (butter would be an alternative)\u00a0inside a heavy tin-lined copper\u00a0pan, tossed with chopped lovage from\u00a0Central Valley Farm, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-chopped Tellicherry pepper, arranged on the plates and sprinkled with some\u00a0chopped fronds from the baby fennel stems used with the salad<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine with the flounder was a California (Central Coast) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/rick-boyer-coastal-white-blend-2016.htm?cid=USA\">Rick Boyer Coastal White Blend 2016<\/a>, from\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/\">Naked Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>There was a dessert (no image)<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>a good portion of a pint of gooseberries from Wilklow Orchards, gently heated in a small high-sided pot with a few drops of fresh water and a few tablespoons of turbinado sugar until the berries had softened and the sugar dissolved into their juices, spooned over scoops (one for each serving) of\u00a0L\u0101 Loos \u2018Vanilla Snowflake\u2019 goat milk ice cream from Whole Foods Market that had themselves\u00a0been centered on the top of 2 slices a delicious \u2018cream cheese pound cake\u2019 from Wilklow Orchards, the farm which had also been the source of the berries<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>[the first image is from one of our guests; the second is from the <a href=\"https:\/\/art.famsf.org\/gunter-grass\/mann-im-butt-man-flounder-198115\">de Young Museum\/Legion of Honor<\/a>]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It was one of those times when I left\u00a0the meal\u00a0without a decent image of it. I still wanted to write something, so I decided to upload\u00a0images of the 2 main ingredients that I might find on line, as a fallback, something I had occasionally done in the past. Then I learned that one of our &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13546","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13546","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13546"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13546\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13546"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13546"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13546"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}