{"id":13123,"date":"2017-06-24T18:25:24","date_gmt":"2017-06-24T18:25:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=13123"},"modified":"2017-06-24T18:25:24","modified_gmt":"2017-06-24T18:25:24","slug":"wild-bass-herbslemon-fava-beans-mint-chicory-anchovy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=13123","title":{"rendered":"wild bass, herbs\/lemon; chicory, anchovy; fava beans, mint"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13128\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/striped_bass_radicchio_fava_beans-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I managed to get the last piece of striped bass in the Greenmarket on Friday. Fortunately, because it&#8217;s probably the most expensive fish in any East Coast\u00a0market these days, it was\u00a0exactly the right, modest proportion\u00a0for the two of us. I blame the high cost on demand, and a general lack of imagination on the part of my fellow\u00a0consumers, but it really is a great fish, beginning with its appearance, seen here lying\u00a0on our kitchen counter before I started dinner.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13133\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/striped_bass_fillet-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I can&#8217;t continue without mentioning\u00a0the near death of the species, mostly because of over-fishing. By the 70s and 80s, &#8216;Stripers&#8217;\u00a0were considered endangered, but then there was a rescue, described by Paul Greenberg in a\u00a02008 New York Times article, &#8216;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2008\/04\/20\/magazine\/20food-t.html\">Bass Market<\/a>&#8216;:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>&#8220;In a major conservation act, a consortium of states halted striped-bass fishing in the \u201980s, and a program was introduced to rebuild the breeding stock in the Chesapeake Bay. &#8230; Today striper populations are listed as &#8216;fully rebuilt,&#8217;&#8230;&#8221;<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>The vegetables, as special as the fish, were Castelfranco radicchio (<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Radicchio\"><em>cichorium intybus excultus<\/em>?<\/a>) and fava beans (<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vicia_faba\"><em>vicia faba<\/em><\/a>).<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13126\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/Castelfranco_radicchio.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13127\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/fava_beans.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one twelve-ounce striped bass fillet from Pura Vida Seafood, rinsed, drained, seasoned on both sides with sea salt and freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper, placed, skin side down, in a little olive oil inside a pre-heated heavy tin-lined copper pan over a medium-high flame, a\u00a0similar heavy pan, oiled on the bottom, pressed on top of the fillet for the first 2 minutes to flatten it and assist in rendering the skin crisp (actually, I&#8217;m not sure the process worked, but, hey..), the fish turned over after about 5 minutes in the pan and cooked for another 2 or 3 minutes,\u00a0removed and arranged on the plates, brushed or spooned with a mixture of chopped lovage from Keith&#8217;s Farm. leaves torn off of a live\u00a0basil plant from Stokes Farm, the zest from half of an organic lemon from Whole Foods Market, and enough olive oil to barely make a liquid sauce<\/li>\n<li>fava beans (I would have to say there are never enough of these emeralds, especially considering how\u00a0little is left after laboriously shelling over a pound in the shell) from Alewife Farm, added to a vintage Pyrex transparent\u00a0glass pan in which one thinly-sliced red onion from Norwich Meadows Farm had been heated in olive oil and softened, the vegetables seasoned with sea salt and frehsly-ground Tellicherry pepper, and tossed with chopped peppermint from Lani&#8217;s Farm<\/li>\n<li>one head of Castelfranco radicchio from Campo Rosso Farm, washed, quartered, tied with string to keep the leaves together, dipped in seasoned olive oil then pan grilled briefly (only 30 seconds\u00a0on each of the 3 sides), arranged on the plates, the strings cut and removed, drizzled with a dressing composed of one salted anchovy, thoroughly rinsed and filleted, a teaspoon of white wine, 2 tablespoons of oil, one and a half tablespoons of juice of\u00a0an organic lemon from Whole Foods Market, and a generous amount of chopped parsley from Phillips Farm<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a California (Andrus, in the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/jacqueline-bahue-albarino-gomes-vineyard-2016.htm?cid=USA\">Jacqueline Bahue Albarino Gomes Vineyard California 2016<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/\">Naked Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=503559\">Claudio\u00a0Monteverdi&#8217;s 1642 opera, &#8216;L&#8217;Incoronazione di Poppea&#8217;, Ren\u00e9 Jacobs conducting the Amsterdam ensemble, Concerto Vocale <\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I managed to get the last piece of striped bass in the Greenmarket on Friday. Fortunately, because it&#8217;s probably the most expensive fish in any East Coast\u00a0market these days, it was\u00a0exactly the right, modest proportion\u00a0for the two of us. I blame the high cost on demand, and a general lack of imagination on the part &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13123","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13123","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13123"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13123\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13123"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13123"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13123"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}