{"id":12859,"date":"2017-05-15T00:20:59","date_gmt":"2017-05-15T00:20:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=12859"},"modified":"2017-05-15T00:20:59","modified_gmt":"2017-05-15T00:20:59","slug":"breaded-marinated-swordfish-potatoes-mustard-spinach","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=12859","title":{"rendered":"breaded marinated swordfish; potatoes; mustard spinach"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12860\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/swordfish_potato_mustard_spinach.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Super.<\/p>\n<p>This was one of the best swordfish entr\u00e9es I&#8217;ve ever had. I can&#8217;t account for the reason, taste, texture, and a good appearance came together to present us with a certain kind of perfection. It must have started\u00a0with the fish&#8217;s extraordinary freshness, since I&#8217;m aware of the large variable in the number of days between a swordfish catch in deep waters\u00a0and its arrival in a market stall, even when the\u00a0fishmonger can be depended\u00a0on\u00a0for freshness and\u00a0the stall is close to the fisherman&#8217;s port.<\/p>\n<p>The other obvious variable is the competence\u00a0&#8211; or, often as not, the luck &#8211; of the cook. I cook swordfish regularly, and know what I&#8217;m doing, but I was really lucky this time.<\/p>\n<p>I had on hand a few tiny potatoes, and I thought this was as good an opportunity as any to make good use of them before they would, so to speak, <em>return to the earth<\/em>. Even more of a recommendation for\u00a0adding them to the dinner was\u00a0the delicate garnish (actually, more than a garnish) of young garlic mustard [<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Alliaria_petiolata\"><em>alliaria petiolata<\/em><\/a>] which I had picked up the same day as the swordfish.<\/p>\n<p>The green vegetable\u00a0was something I had never come across before Saturday, but I&#8217;ll now\u00a0be keeping my eye out for\u00a0it. In addition to its general rareness,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Komatsuna\">Japanese mustard spinach<\/a> (or <em>Komatsuna<\/em>) \u00a0is apparently unable to withstand summer heat, so it&#8217;s available only in the spring and the fall, but it&#8217;s well worth the hunt. My\u00a0Greenmarket purveyor was\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.riverreporter.com\/issues\/01-08-30\/gorzynski.htm\">Gorzynski Ornery Farm<\/a>, owned, together with his wife and family, by John Gorzynski, a local farmer whose integrity is\u00a0famous, second to none, for decades a powerful advocate for organic agriculture and small-scale growers.<\/p>\n<p>Mustard spinach is neither mustard, nor spinach, but a member of the enormous\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Brassica_rapa\"><em>Brassica rapa<\/em><\/a> family.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12861\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/mustard_spinach.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one 13-ounce swordfish steak from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood in the Union Square Greenmarket, halved, then marinated for half an hour in a mixture of olive oil, the white sections of 2 thin scallions from Tamarack Hollow Farm, chopped, fresh oregano leaves from Stokes Farm, and a very small amount of\u00a0crushed dried Sicilian pepperoncino from Buon Italia, the steaks drained well, covered on both sides with a coating of homemade dried breadcrumbs, pan-grilled over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, removed to 2 plates, seasoned with sea salt, some\u00a0sweet local lemon juice from Fantastic gardens of Long Island squeezed on top, sprinkled with some of the green scallion leaves, chopped, and drizzled with a little olive oil<\/li>\n<li>four small Red Norland Potatoes from Berried Treasures, boiled in well-salted water, drained,\u00a0dried in their still-warm vintage Pyrex glass\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ebay.com\/itm\/VIntage-Pyrex-6-Piece-Blue-Tint-Flameware-Stovetop-Pans-Removeable-Handles-\/111577304599\">pot<\/a>, rolled in a little olive oil, seasoned with sea salt and freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper, sprinkled with flowers and some smaller leaves of several stems of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2017\/05\/11\/nyregion\/garlic-mustard-evil-invasive-delicious.html?_r=0\">garlic mustard<\/a>\u00a0from Windfall Farms<\/li>\n<li>one bunch of mustard spinach\u00a0from\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.riverreporter.com\/issues\/01-08-30\/gorzynski.htm\">Gorzynski Ornery Farm<\/a>,\u00a0wilted inside a large enameled cast iron pot in a little olive oil in which one halved clove\u00a0of very good <a href=\"http:\/\/www.christopherranch.com\/\">Christopher Garlic Ranch<\/a> garlic from Eataly had been allowed to sweat, seasoned with sea salt, freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper, and a very small amount of the same crushed dried Sicilian\u00a0<em>pepperoncino <\/em>used in the swordfish marinade,<em>\u00a0<\/em>finished on the plates with a drizzle of juice from the same\u00a0sweet local lemon used on the fish, and a bit of olive oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a Portuguese (Tejo) white,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/casa-cadaval-tejo-branco-padre-pedro-2014#.WRfFRYEpCaM\">Casa Cadaval Padre Pedro Tejo 2014<\/a>, from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/\">Chelsea Wine Vault<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was the the gorgeous <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=15827\">1918-1920 Walter Braunfels opera, &#8216;Die Vogel&#8217; [Ger: The Birds], &#8220;..a\u00a0lightly touched allegory loosely based on Aristophanes, in a performance\u00a0of\u00a0Lothar Zagrosek conducting the Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin and the Berlin Radio Chorus, with soloists\u00a0 Wolfgang Holzmair, Hellen Kwon, Matthias Goerne, Michael Kraus, and others<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Super. This was one of the best swordfish entr\u00e9es I&#8217;ve ever had. I can&#8217;t account for the reason, taste, texture, and a good appearance came together to present us with a certain kind of perfection. It must have started\u00a0with the fish&#8217;s extraordinary freshness, since I&#8217;m aware of the large variable in the number of days &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12859","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12859","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=12859"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12859\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=12859"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=12859"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=12859"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}