{"id":12566,"date":"2017-04-23T00:46:14","date_gmt":"2017-04-23T00:46:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=12566"},"modified":"2017-04-23T00:46:14","modified_gmt":"2017-04-23T00:46:14","slug":"the-magic-meal-25-years-on-conchiglie-al-forno","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=12566","title":{"rendered":"the &#8216;magic meal&#8217;, 25 years on: Conchiglie al Forno"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12568\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/magic_meal_bowl.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p><em>Conchiglie al forno<\/em>, with mushrooms, 4 cheeses, cream, radicchio, and fresh sage.<\/p>\n<p>I prepared this meal for the very first time exactly 25 years to the day before I served it this past Wednesday, and there have been many occasions between.<\/p>\n<p>We call it &#8216;the magic meal&#8217;, always have.<\/p>\n<p>The night of April 19, 1992 was the first time I made dinner for Barry. He had very recently been transferred from his employer&#8217;s New York office to the one in Seattle, at his request. I was devastated when he told me about it: \u00a0We had only begun to get acquainted, through a few chaste dates. He had always had to go back to the\u00a0office after each of them, which explains\u00a0one of the\u00a0reasons he wanted\u00a0to move out of New York.<\/p>\n<p>He must have noticed I was upset, so he assured me he&#8217;d have to visit\u00a0the New York office occasionally, probably beginning soon after he had settled in on the West Coast. I promised to make him dinner when he did. It was the first time I did; it wasn&#8217;t to be the last.<\/p>\n<p>He didn&#8217;t return to his hotel that night.<\/p>\n<p>The date (both senses) is now one of our 6\u00a0anniversaries. Note: When you don&#8217;t believe in marriage, you get to have as many anniversaries as you can get excited about &#8211; and remember.<\/p>\n<p>I picked\u00a0this particular dish because I could prepare it entirely ahead of time (it tastes at least as good reheated on another day), meaning there&#8217;s\u00a0nothing to distract\u00a0the cook from visiting with a\u00a0guest (or guests);\u00a0all it needs otherwise is a simple uncooked appetizer and either some fruit\u00a0or a gelato, and the arrangements for neither course will keep the company alone.<\/p>\n<p>The recipe for the dish is on <a href=\"http:\/\/www.foodnetwork.com\/recipes\/conchiglie-al-forno-with-mushrooms-and-radicchio-recipe\">this site<\/a>. I still have the wrinkled clipping from a copy of the September 16, 1990\u00a0&#8216;New York Times Magazine&#8217;, where I first saw it.<\/p>\n<p>It also appears in a book,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.goodreads.com\/book\/show\/401479.Cucina_Simpatica\">&#8216;Cucina Simpatica&#8217;<\/a>,\u00a0given to me 2 years later by a dear friend with whom I used to share many wonderful meals in Providence and New York. The book was published in 1991 by\u00a0Johanne Killeen and George Germon, who were, as far as I know, also the <em>creators<\/em> of this Lucullan dish. Jacqueline knew I loved the authors&#8217; wonderful Providence restaurant, as she did, but did not know at the time how they had brought Barry and I together.<\/p>\n<p>Here is the pasta inside the baking\u00a0dish, just as it came out of the oven:<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12579\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/magic_meal_pan-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the ingredients in my own preparation included shiitake mushrooms from John D. Madera Farm,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/kerrygoldusa.com\/products?category=2\">Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter<\/a>\u00a0from Whole Foods Market,\u00a0Neapolitan\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.eataly.net\/de_en\/conchiglioni-0-5kg-il-pastaio-di-gragnano\">il Pastaio di Gragnano conchiglioni<\/a> from Eataly,\u00a0Ronnybrook Farms heavy (&#8216;double&#8217;) cream from the local dairy&#8217;s stand in the Union Square Greenmarket, radicchio from Eataly, <em>Parmigiano &amp; Reggiano Bonat 5 anni<\/em> from Buon Italia, Guffanti Fontina Oro Affinata from Eataly (substituting for &#8216;Bel Paese&#8217; in the recipe),\u00a0Lombardia\u00a0300-day Gorgonzola from Eataly, ricotta from Eataly, and fresh sage leaves from\u00a0S. &amp; S.O. Produce Farm<\/li>\n<li>the wine was an Italian (Sicily, Etna) red,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.chambersstwines.com\/Products\/45938\/2014-biondi-ciro-etna-rosso-outis-nessuno\">Biondi, Ciro 2014 Etna Rosso Outis Nessuno<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.chambersstwines.com\/\">Chambers Street Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>There had also been an antipasto.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12570\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/Lachsschinken_pea_sprouts.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>thin slices of <em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schallerweber.com\/product\/lachsschinken\/\">Lachsschinken<\/a><\/em> (Italian:\u00a0<em>Lonza di maiale affumicata<\/em>) from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.schallerweber.com\/find-buy\/original-store\/\">Schaller &amp; Weber<\/a><\/li>\n<li>pea shoots from Lani&#8217;s Farm which, along with the salume, were drizzled with a little\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/alce-nero-e-mielizia-s-p-a.allbiz.it\/olio-extravergine-di-oliva-italiano-dop-terre-di-g101481\">Alce Nero <\/a>DOP &#8216;Terra di Bari Bitonto from Eataly<\/li>\n<li>slices of\u00a0a\u00a0<a dir=\"ltr\">Balthazar<\/a> rye boule, from Schaller &amp; Weber<\/li>\n<li>because it was a very special occasion, the wine in toasts before and quaffed\u00a0during this course was a French (Champagne) sparkling ros\u00e9,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.chambersstwines.com\/Products\/?timestamp=1492905996399&amp;category=0&amp;keyword=Beaufort,%20Andr%C3%A9%202010%20Champagne%20Polisy%20Ros%C3%A9%20Brut&amp;organic=false&amp;biodynamic=false&amp;lowsulfur=false&amp;newArrivals=false&amp;sortBy=Region&amp;page=0\">Beaufort, Andr\u00e9 2010 Champagne Polisy Ros\u00e9 Brut<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.chambersstwines.com\/\">Chambers Street Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music throughout much of the meal was\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=22521\">Anton\u00a0Bruckner&#8217;s 1891-1896, Symphony No 9, Rafael Kubelik conducting the\u00a0Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra in a 1985 recording<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Conchiglie al forno, with mushrooms, 4 cheeses, cream, radicchio, and fresh sage. I prepared this meal for the very first time exactly 25 years to the day before I served it this past Wednesday, and there have been many occasions between. We call it &#8216;the magic meal&#8217;, always have. The night of April 19, 1992 &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12566","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12566","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=12566"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12566\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=12566"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=12566"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=12566"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}