{"id":11772,"date":"2017-02-21T20:00:56","date_gmt":"2017-02-21T20:00:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=11772"},"modified":"2017-02-21T20:00:56","modified_gmt":"2017-02-21T20:00:56","slug":"lotte-a-la-moutarde-pierre-franey-la-tombee-depinards","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=11772","title":{"rendered":"Lotte \u00e0 la moutarde Pierre Franey; la tomb\u00e9e d&#8217;\u00e9pinards"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11777\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Lotte_epinard.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>These days it&#8217;s not often I get to feel a little French while sitting at a\u00a0dinner table, but last night there was something of the feel of a Paris bistro inside\u00a0our own apartment, thanks in part to a French chef who had come to the U.S. in 1939.<\/p>\n<p>An alien (yes!) kitchen assistant\u00a0working legally in the French pavilion at the 1939 World&#8217;s Fair, Pierre\u00a0Franey chose to join the U.S. army as an infantry machine gunner when his adopted country entered the war. He had declined the offer to become General MacArthur&#8217;s cook, and later won a Purple Heart. After the war he rose to the position of top chef at Le Pavillon and La Cote Basque, but he dedicated much of his later career to bringing a broader appreciation to the pleasures of preparing good food, including an emphasis on regional cuisine, local sources, simple preparation.<\/p>\n<p>Born into a socialist family in northern Burgundy in 1921, Franey died with his chef&#8217;s toque on,\u00a0suffering a fatal stroke in 1996 just after conducting a cooking demonstration on the Queen Elizabeth II.<\/p>\n<p>A few years ago <a href=\"http:\/\/www.danspapers.com\/2014\/02\/beloved-chef-pierre-franey-lives-on-through-recipe-website\/\">his 3 children created a website<\/a> which <a href=\"http:\/\/www.pierrefraney.com\/recipes.html\">includes over a hundred of his recipes<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>This one, for what we call monkfish, isn&#8217;t in it, but it&#8217;s pretty terrific, and obviously not very <em>haute<\/em>.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>four small monkfish fillets (about 18 ounces total)\u00a0from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood, washed, drained, dried, then prepared \u2018Dijon Style\u2019, with a red onion variation\u00a0of\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/cooking.nytimes.com\/recipes\/1959-monkfish-fillets-dijon-style\">this vintage Pierre Franey recipe<\/a>\u00a0[note: 15 minutes may be too long for fish this size]; the\u00a0ingredients I used included Cremini\u00a0mushrooms from John D. Madura\u00a0Farm, garlic from Healthway Farms &amp; CSA; one small red onion\u00a0from Norwich Meadows Farm;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.astorwines.com\/SearchResultsSingle.aspx?search=23979&amp;searchtype=Contains&amp;term=Tufjano&amp;p=1\">Tufjano Bianco, Colli della Murgia \u2013 2013<\/a>\u00a0wine, from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.astorwines.com\/Default.aspx\">Astor Wines<\/a>; the juice from one small local\u00a0lemon (Fantastic Gardens of N.J.);\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/kerrygoldusa.com\/products?category=2\">Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter<\/a>; and parsley from\u00a0Eataly<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>I don&#8217;t have a picture of the mushrooms here, because I grabbed the last in the farmer&#8217;s little bin, but here&#8217;e the Spinach, wonderful, both before and after\u00a0its preparation.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11786\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/loose_spinach.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>spinach from John D. Madura Farm (around 6 oz.),\u00a0washed in several changes of water, drained, gently wilted (that is, not reduced too far) inside a large enameled cast iron pot in a little olive oil in which 2 cloves of garlic from\u00a0Healthway Farms &amp; CSA had first been allowed to sweat, seasoned with salt, freshly-ground black pepper,\u00a0a little crushed dried <em>Itria-Sirissi<\/em> chili (<em>peperoncino di Sardegna intero<\/em>) from <em>Buon Italia<\/em>, then drizzled with olive oil and a little\u00a0juice from\u00a0one small local\u00a0lemon from Fantastic Gardens of N.J.<\/li>\n<li>The wine was\u00a0a California (grapes from the\u00a0Sacramento River Delta with a small amount of Viognier from Lodi) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/miriam-alexandra-chenin-blanc-california-2016.htm\">Miriam Alexandra Chenin Blanc California 2016, by Alexandra Farber<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/\">Naked Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=1848079\">Mahler&#8217;s &#8216;Symphony No 9&#8217;, Iv\u00e1n Fischer conducting the Budapest Festival Orchestr\u00e1<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>These days it&#8217;s not often I get to feel a little French while sitting at a\u00a0dinner table, but last night there was something of the feel of a Paris bistro inside\u00a0our own apartment, thanks in part to a French chef who had come to the U.S. in 1939. An alien (yes!) kitchen assistant\u00a0working legally in &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11772","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11772","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11772"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11772\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11772"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11772"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11772"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}