{"id":11645,"date":"2017-02-15T00:55:29","date_gmt":"2017-02-15T00:55:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=11645"},"modified":"2017-02-15T00:55:29","modified_gmt":"2017-02-15T00:55:29","slug":"smoked-eel-with-chive-horseradish-creme-lachsschinken","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=11645","title":{"rendered":"smoked eel with chive, horseradish cr\u00e8me; Lachsschinken"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11650\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/Lachsschinken_Geraucherter_Aal.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Yes.<\/p>\n<p>A delicious winter picnic at home, with a very heavy German accent (the picnic, that is).<\/p>\n<p>Unusual for this site, the leading image (here the only one) is of the entire old birch table, rather than just one of the plates: I thought it this view would cover more ground, so to speak.<\/p>\n<p>The breads were nearly as important to the meal as the fish and the meat. The sturdy New York state sourdough combined the attributes of a traditional German bread with\u00a0varieties introduced more recently into a culture looking for even more diversity\u00a0in foods already\u00a0very wholesome.<\/p>\n<p>The pumpernickel however (on the upper right in the picture), with its &#8220;characteristic deep brown color, sweet, dark chocolate, coffee flavor, and earthy aroma&#8221; [a description found in\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Pumpernickel\">Wikipedia<\/a>], and especially when it is in this intense, compact form, is totally German. Its addictive virtues (along with those of all\u00a0the other varieties of thin, heavy, moist\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/de.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vollkornbrot\"><em>Vollkornbrot<\/em><\/a>), made it\u00a0one of the first things I fell in love with when I arrived in\u00a0Hannover in June, 1961; I ate it like candy. I think these pre-packaged treasures, of\u00a0any grain, are the only commercial breads &#8211; and the only sliced breads &#8211; I would ever expect to bring home.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>one small (8-ounce) local (Long Island) whole smoked eel [<em>Aal<\/em>, in German] from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood [for a picture, scroll down <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2017\/02\/06\/spaghetti-smoked-eel-garlic-habanada-chili-pangrattato\/\">here<\/a>],\u00a0skinned, head removed, boned, and cut into small\u00a0pieces, combined in a bowl with the zest and juice of one organic lemon and a small handful of scissored fresh chives from Two Guys from Woodbridge, allowed to rest a bit, and then, when ready to serve, sprinkling the eel with salt to taste, then a mix of <em>cr\u00e8me fra\u00eeche<\/em>\u00a0from\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ronnybrook.com\/\">Ronnybrook Farm Dairy<\/a>\u00a0and a generous amount of grated horseradish root, both from Eataly, swiped across lightly-toasted and fairly thin slices of\u00a0a sourdough wheat and rye bread with sunflower and\u00a0flax seeds from <a href=\"http:\/\/hawthornevalleyfarm.org\/where-to-buy\/farmers-markets\/\">Hawthorne Valley Farm<\/a>, then spooning the eel with lemon and chives on top of the layer of cream<\/li>\n<li>thin slices of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.schallerweber.com\/product\/lachsschinken\/\">Lachsschinken<\/a> from Schaller &amp; Weber, twisted on the tines of\u00a0a fork, arranged on a small glass plate, served with slices of an incredibly rich imported German\u00a0whole grain <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Pumpernickel\">pumpernickel<\/a> (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.delba.de\/\">Delba-Backbetrieb<\/a>)<\/li>\n<li>a little undressed upland cress, from Two Guys from Woodbridge, to be added to\u00a0both canap\u00e9s<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a German (Pfalz) white,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.vivino.com\/wineries\/friedrich-becker\/wines\/pinot-blanc-2013\">Friedrich Becker Pinot Blanc 2013<\/a>, from our much-missed\u00a0former neighborhood\u00a0wine shop, <a href=\"http:\/\/appellationnyc.com\/\">Appellation Wine &amp;\u00a0Spirits<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music, on the eve of Saint Valentine&#8217;s day, was\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=25174\">Georg Philipp Telemann&#8217;s 1726 opera &#8216;Orpheus&#8217;<\/a> [full german title: <em>Die wunderbare Best\u00e4ndigkeit der Liebe oder Orpheus <\/em>(surprisingly for the era, most of the opera is in German, thanks to the\u00a0<em>guten B\u00fcrger<\/em>\u00a0of Hamburg, who did not depend on highfalutin princes, for whom it was first produced, in concert form, at the <em>Theater am G\u00e4nsemarkt<\/em>)], this recording by the\u00a0Academy for Ancient Music Berlin, and the Berlin RIAS Chamber Chorus [interesting note about the piece, from the opera&#8217;s <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Orpheus_(Telemann)\">Wikipedia entry<\/a>: &#8220;Most of the work is in German but it also contains passages in French and Italian drawn from famous operas by <a class=\"mw-redirect\" title=\"Handel\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Handel\">Handel<\/a> and <a title=\"Jean-Baptiste Lully\" href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Jean-Baptiste_Lully\">Jean-Baptiste Lully<\/a>. The music to these words is Telemann&#8217;s own, however. The manuscript score of <i>Orpheus<\/i> was not rediscovered until the late 20th century.&#8221;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Yes. A delicious winter picnic at home, with a very heavy German accent (the picnic, that is). Unusual for this site, the leading image (here the only one) is of the entire old birch table, rather than just one of the plates: I thought it this view would cover more ground, so to speak. The &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11645","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11645","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11645"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11645\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11645"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11645"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11645"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}