{"id":11542,"date":"2017-02-08T00:10:58","date_gmt":"2017-02-08T00:10:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=11542"},"modified":"2017-02-08T00:10:58","modified_gmt":"2017-02-08T00:10:58","slug":"gray-sole-tomato-butter-cavalo-nero-super-new-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=11542","title":{"rendered":"gray sole, &#8216;tomato butter&#8217;; cavalo nero; super new cheese"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11546\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/sole_tomato_cav_nero.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The gray sole, whose name is\u00a0almost always spelled\u00a0elsewhere in the English-speaking world, &#8216;grey sole&#8217;, is a beautiful fish, delicate and mild in flavor. \u00a0&#8220;It&#8217;s barely even fish&#8221; is a description I just came across on a site advising people new to cooking or eating fish. It also had\u00a0a very gentle, I&#8217;ll even say &#8216;perfect&#8217;, texture (something to which even the finest\u00a0Schnitzel could never aspire).<\/p>\n<p>I forgot to add that it&#8217;s delicious.\u00a0\u00a0It doesn&#8217;t taste like chicken, but, like chicken, it may seem to be asking\u00a0to be loaded down with additional flavor ingredients. I&#8217;m usually careful\u00a0to avoid the temptation.<\/p>\n<p>I try not to disguise any of the virtues I&#8217;ve\u00a0described above, and last night I introduced almost nothing between the fish, simply seasoned and fried in butter and olive oil, and our taste buds, making sure that in the placement of the &#8216;tomato butter&#8217;, so perfect a compliment, it would remain just that, and\u00a0would not smother the fillets, physically or tastewise.<\/p>\n<p>I had picked up barely two-thirds of a pound of fish that morning, but I wasn&#8217;t worried\u00a0that the entr\u00e9e would be too small for us: I wanted to be sure we would be interested in a second course, one which would include a new local\u00a0cheese\u00a0I had been\u00a0looking forward to checking out.<\/p>\n<p>On the other hand, the little bit of Tuscan kale (aka\u00a0<em>cavalo nero<\/em>,\u00a0<em>lacinato<\/em>, or black kale)<em>\u00a0<\/em>with which<em>\u00a0<\/em>I had decided to accompany the sole seemed to grow smaller and smaller as the cooking process advanced;\u00a0I ended up slicing\u00a0some excellent hearty bread, with the excuse that something would be needed to soak up the juices.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11545\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/cavalo_nero.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Four small Gray sole fillets, roughly 2-and-a-half-ounces each, from P.E. &amp; D.D. Seafood, cooked in a heavy tin-lined copper pan over medium-to-high heat for little more than a minute, turning, and cooking for another minute, or until done, placed on warm plates, some &#8216;tomato butter&#8217; arranged on each plate between the fillets [the butter had been\u00a0composed a few minutes\u00a0earlier\u00a0by melting some \u2018<a href=\"http:\/\/kerrygoldusa.com\/products?category=2\">Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter<\/a>\u2018, then adding half of one small shallot\u00a0from Norwich Meadows Farm, finely diced, cooking the onion\u00a0until softened and fragrant, removing the shallot butter\u00a0from the heat, allowing it\u00a0to cool for 2 or 3 minutes, then tossing it with 5\u00a0Backyard Farms Maine \u2018cocktail tomatoes\u2019 from Whole Foods, each cut into 6 wedges\u00a0(the tomatoes, minutes before, tossed with almost a teaspoon of torn Gotham Greens Rooftop packaged basil from Whole Foods), stirred gently,\u00a0seasoned with salt, with a few drops of red wine (Chianti) vinegar stirred into the mix at the end]<\/li>\n<li>one small bunch of\u00a0<em>cavalo nero<\/em> from Eckerton Hill Farm, wilted briefly in\u00a0olive oil\u00a0in which one clove or garlic from Tamarack Hollow Farm\u00a0had first been heated, seasoned with salt and pepper, drizzled with a little more oil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The\u00a0course that\u00a0followed included more of the same bread, which turned out to be a great foil for a fantastic\u00a0cheese, and also a perfect spreading platform.<\/p>\n<p>The picture immediately below is of an 18-ounce small wheel (I took home about\u00a0half of it).<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11552\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/bloomy_rind_pasteurized_cow-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This is a glimpse of the cut\u00a0side, on the counter at home, a section of cheese already having been removed and served.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11555\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/bloomy_cut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>wedges of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.considerbardwellfarm.com\/\">Consider Bardwell Farm<\/a>&#8216;s very exciting new, &#8220;bloomy rind pasteurized cow\u00a0cheese wrapped in spruce bark and aged in Brooklyn&#8221;, Peter&#8217;s\u00a0description of Peter, while he was giving me a taste (the cheese has not yet been named), served with slices of\u00a0&#8216;8 Grain 3 Seed&#8217; bread from\u00a0Rock Hill Bakery<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the wine throughout was a French (Burgundy) white,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/domaine-dupre-chardonnay-bourgogne-2014#.WJk8tzw8KaM\">Domaine Dupr\u00e9 Chardonnay Bourgogne 2014<\/a>, from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/\">Chelsea Wine Vault<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was <a href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/album.jsp?album_id=699936\">Antonio Vivaldi, &#8216;Six Concertos for the Emperor&#8217; [Charles VI], performed by Andrew Manze and the English Concert<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The gray sole, whose name is\u00a0almost always spelled\u00a0elsewhere in the English-speaking world, &#8216;grey sole&#8217;, is a beautiful fish, delicate and mild in flavor. \u00a0&#8220;It&#8217;s barely even fish&#8221; is a description I just came across on a site advising people new to cooking or eating fish. It also had\u00a0a very gentle, I&#8217;ll even say &#8216;perfect&#8217;, texture &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11542","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11542","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11542"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11542\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11542"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11542"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11542"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}