{"id":11230,"date":"2017-01-18T01:13:23","date_gmt":"2017-01-18T01:13:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=11230"},"modified":"2017-01-18T01:13:23","modified_gmt":"2017-01-18T01:13:23","slug":"paprika-rubbed-braised-goat-sweetsour-parsnips-mizuna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=11230","title":{"rendered":"paprika-rubbed braised goat; sweet\/sour parsnips; mizuna"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11231\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/goat_parsnips_mizuna.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>It was a Sunday dinner, but only remotely related to the kind Mom served in our midwestern\u00a0dining room\u00a0in the middle of the last century.<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;ve liked preparing and have enjoyed <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=goat\">eating goat in the past<\/a>, although it hadn&#8217;t shown up on our table in a year. Then, a\u00a0couple weeks ago, on a visit to the Union Square Greenmarket I saw that <a href=\"http:\/\/www.considerbardwellfarm.com\/cheese.html\">Consider Bardwell Farm<\/a> was advertising meat. I&#8217;ve bought veal and goat\u00a0from them before, and the quality of both the meat and the butchery has been excellent.\u00a0They&#8217;re really focused on\u00a0the production of some very fine cheese, so the goat [<a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Goat_meat\">chevon<\/a>] and the veal is something of a special event (I once heard a\u00a0farmer who only made ewe&#8217;s\u00a0cheese tell a puzzled customer, explaining the appearance of goat meat at her stall, &#8220;have to do something with all the boys&#8221;).<\/p>\n<p>I asked Paul, of Consider Bardwell, about goat chops, maybe a\u00a0partial rack, or perhaps some ribs, but he was out of all those cuts by that time of the afternoon,\u00a0so I picked\u00a0up with a small roast, a boneless shoulder, to be precise; it weighed\u00a0but one pound. I had never cooked a goat shoulder, but I knew it would require a long, slow braise to tenderize the meat. I hit the files, came up with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.shepherdsongfarm.com\/braised-goat-shoulder-with-sweet-paprika\/\">this recipe<\/a>, and it was more or less the process I used.<\/p>\n<p>It was an interesting operation, and the chevon\u00a0tasted very\u00a0good, but neither of us thinks the time and the effort it required would be worth repeating.<\/p>\n<p>Unfortunately (or not) there was too much liquid remaining in the pot to be quickly\u00a0reduced for a sauce, so I improvised and produced something more like an <em>au jus<\/em>, enriched with a little rich\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/kerrygoldusa.com\/products?category=2\">Kerrygold Pure Irish Butter<\/a>. It was actually very good (see the mention of veal tongue stock below, in the list of ingredients).<\/p>\n<p>The next time I&#8217;ll hold out for those chops, maybe a\u00a0partial rack, or perhaps some ribs, and yet\u00a0I know I&#8217;d still be a sucker for something different.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11238\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/parsnips.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-11239\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/mizuna.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the ingredients for the tiny braise included\u00a0a one-pound boneless rolled goat shoulder from Consider Bardwell Farm, which I daintily bound in butcher&#8217;s twine (I should have taken a picture of the neat pattern);\u00a0<em>Piment\u00f3n de la Vera dulce<\/em>,<em>\u00a0<\/em>in which the roast was rubbed, along with salt and pepper, and left for an hour before the cooking began); garlic and onion\u00a0from Lucky Dog Organic Farm; celery from Foragers; carrot\u00a0from Norwich Meadows Farm;\u00a0chicken broth made with <a href=\"http:\/\/www.betterthanbouillon.com\/\">Better Than Bullion<\/a> chicken base; and, instead of veal stock, veal <em>tongue<\/em> stock remaining after <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2016\/03\/01\/veal-tongue-with-a-black-olive-tomato-herb-sauce-polenta\/\">this March\u00a0meal<\/a> and frozen at the time; and parsley from Eataly<\/li>\n<li>about a pound of parsnips from Tamarack Hollow Farm, cooked along the lines of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.thekitchn.com\/find-sweet-love-with-baby-turnips-220991\">this recipe<\/a>, using local Linden blossom honey from Tremblay Apiaries; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.maioligourmand-shop.com\/acetaia-c-giaccone-aceto-cesare-bianco.html\">Aceto Cesare Bianco<\/a> white wine\u00a0vinegar from Buon Italia; and chives from Two Guys from Woodbridge<\/li>\n<li>mizuna from Norwich Meadows Farm, wilted in a little olive oil, seasoned with Maldon salt and freshly-ground Tellicherry pepper<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a California (Lodi) red,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/karen-birmingham-zinfandel-lodi-2014.htm?cid=USA\">Karen Birmingham Zinfandel Lodi 2014<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/\">Naked wines<\/a><\/li>\n<li>the music was Paul Dessau&#8217;s 1974 opera, &#8216;Einstein&#8217;, a 1976 recording from its premier production in East Berlin, Otmar Suitner conducting the\u00a0<a class=\"noline\" href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/Name\/Berlin-State-Opera-Chorus\/Ensemble\/62930-4\">Berlin State Opera Chorus<\/a>,\u00a0 <a class=\"noline\" href=\"http:\/\/www.arkivmusic.com\/classical\/Name\/Berlin-Staatskapelle-members\/Ensemble\/92274-4\">Berlin Staatskapelle members<\/a>; it&#8217;s a very interesting artifact, with some &#8220;bleakly expressive&#8221; [Gramophone]\u00a0music;\u00a0the text and the music are discussed in these three\u00a0contrasting reviews: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.complete-review.com\/reviews\/mickelk\/einstein.htm#ours\">Complete Review,<\/a>\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.gramophone.co.uk\/review\/dessau-einstein\">Gramophone<\/a>, and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.suppressedmusic.org.uk\/newsletter\/reviews\/opera_dessau.html\">Suppressed Music<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11241\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/01\/dessau-paul-en.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"390\" height=\"496\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Paul Dessau, Los Angeles 1948, photographed by Curt Bois<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>[image of Dessau from <a href=\"http:\/\/kuenste-im-exil.de\/KIE\/Content\/EN\/Persons\/dessau-paul-en.html\">kuenste-im-exil.de<\/a>]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It was a Sunday dinner, but only remotely related to the kind Mom served in our midwestern\u00a0dining room\u00a0in the middle of the last century. I&#8217;ve liked preparing and have enjoyed eating goat in the past, although it hadn&#8217;t shown up on our table in a year. Then, a\u00a0couple weeks ago, on a visit to the &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11230","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11230","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11230"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11230\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11230"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11230"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11230"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}