{"id":10937,"date":"2016-12-27T22:00:32","date_gmt":"2016-12-27T22:00:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=10937"},"modified":"2016-12-27T22:00:32","modified_gmt":"2016-12-27T22:00:32","slug":"venison-brandy-sauce-quince-chutney-parsnips-collards","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?p=10937","title":{"rendered":"venison, brandy sauce; quince chutney; parsnips; collards"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10938\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/venison_parsnips-collards-quince.jpg\" alt=\"venison_parsnips-collards-quince\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I could easily get used to this.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Venison has always been\u00a0one of my favorite entr\u00e9es, but I&#8217;m becoming more and more comfortable with preparing it at home, and I&#8217;m really enjoying the process of selecting it from some of my\u00a0favorite butchers.<\/p>\n<p>This time I picked a\u00a0fresh venison &#8216;shortloin&#8217; from Frank (the game specialist brother) at\u00a0Ottomanelli\u2019s\u00a0in the West Village.<\/p>\n<p>We had expected to have guests, although we hadn&#8217;t starting asking friends until after they had already made commitments, as it turned out. We had both been under the weather for weeks, and arranging a dinner party didn&#8217;t\u00a0get on the to-do list until\u00a0later.<\/p>\n<p>The piece, the very tenderest loin cut of red deer (<em>cervus elaphus),<\/em> that I had brought home was larger than we wanted for just ourselves (it&#8217;s a very rich meat), so I cut one section away after I had\u00a0unwrapped the package and carefully stowed it in the freezer for another day.<\/p>\n<p>The recipe I used is for the venison is by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.townvibe.com\/Ridgefield\/July-August-2013\/Ten-Minutes-With-Brendan-Walsh\/\">Brendan Walsh<\/a>; it&#8217;s one from an article I had cut from the Daily News 30 years ago, and I still have the yellowing newsprint in my &#8216;game&#8217; file. Walsh was the young chef at\u00a0Arizona 206 at the time.<\/p>\n<p>The venison was the only major part of this meal not sourced locally (American\u00a0game is not allowed to be sold anywhere in the country), and many\u00a0of the &#8216;minor&#8217; elements &#8211; including the fantastic lemon[!] &#8211; were also from the New York City area.<\/p>\n<p>I included some of the\u00a0compote or chutney I had prepared for <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/2016\/11\/26\/venison-quince-compote-camote-chipotle-gratin-lacinato\/\">our Thanksgiving dinner<\/a>, and which we have enjoyed again since; it was as luscious as ever.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10968\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/parsnips-1.jpg\" alt=\"parsnips\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The tender parsnips were cooked\u00a0mostly\u00a0along the lines of\u00a0a recipe, new to me, which I found\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.epicurious.com\/recipes\/member\/views\/lemon-roasted-parsnips-50016709\">on\u00a0this site<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10969\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/loose_collards.jpg\" alt=\"loose_collards\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The sweet collards are <a href=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/?s=collards+\">old friends<\/a> of ours.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>two 7-ounce, one-inch thick medallions\u00a0cut from a fresh, vacuum-packaged 22-ounce New Zealand<b>\u00a0<\/b>venison &#8216;shortloin&#8217; from D&#8217;artagnan, via\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/westviewnews.org\/2015\/06\/o-ottomanelli-sons\/\">Ottomanelli\u2019s<\/a>, dried rubbed with olive oil and a very generous coasting of freshly-cracked black peppercorns, set aside for more than\u00a0an hour, after which it was placed over moderately high heat in 1-2 tablespoons of a combination of butter and olive oil inside an oval 11-inch enameled cast iron pan, cooked barely medium rare, which meant about 2 minutes on one side, or until juices\u00a0had begun accumulating on the top, turned and cooked for another 2 minutes, transferred to warm plates, the bottom of the pan scraped with a wooden spatula to collect the juices, a quarter cup of brandy (Courvoisier V.O. this time) added to the pan and cooked over high heat until reduced to about 2 tablespoons before the sauce was poured over the meat, which was then garnished with chopped parsley from\u00a0Alex&#8217;s Tomato Farm at Chelsea&#8217;s Down to Earth Farmers Market\u00a0(it was almost certainly the last of this sweet herb I will see from local farmers)<\/li>\n<li>quince chutney, made following <a href=\"http:\/\/www.thekitchn.com\/recipe-quince-c-160946\">this theKitchn.com recipe<\/a>, using a shallot from Keith\u2019s Farm, a garlic clove from Stokes Farm, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.harvesttotable.com\/2007\/12\/quince_cooked_quince_has_a\/\">quince<\/a>\u00a0from\u00a0Red Jacket Orchards, dried sweet cherries (don&#8217;t know whether they were local) from Whole Foods, fresh ginger from Lani\u2019s Farm, apple cider from Locust Grove Fruit Farm (the recipe asked for apple cider <em>vinegar<\/em>, and I do have a bottle of the local stuff, from Race Farm, but I misread the instruction and the dish\u00a0still turned out more than fine)<\/li>\n<li>half to 3\u00a0quarters of a pound of young parsnips from Tamarack Hollow Farm, scrubbed, peeled,\u00a0cut, roughly into 3 to 4\u00a0inch lengths and half\u00a0inch widths, tossed and stirred inside a medium copper pot in which\u00a04 tablespoons of\u00a0butter had been melted, the roots sprinkled with salt and pepper, removed with a slotted wooden spoon and the pot put aside on the stove, arranged on a large, well-seasoned Pampered Chef unglazed ceramic pan and roasted in a 375\u00ba oven for about 45 minutes, after which half a tablespoon of juice and a teaspoon of zest from a sweet local lemon, from Fantastic Gardens of Long Island,\u00a0and\u00a0a few pinches of freshly-grated nutmeg were added to the pot\u00a0of\u00a0melted butter reserved earlier, the parsnips added and tossed with the butter over medium heat for a minute or two, and the seasoning corrected, if necessary<\/li>\n<li>some sweet late-season loose collard greens from Lucky Dog Organic\u00a0Farm,\u00a0cut as a very rough chiffonade, braised in a heavy pot in which one\u00a0large clove of quartered garlic from Stokes\u00a0Farm\u00a0had been allowed to sweat with some olive oil, the dish finished with salt, pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a California (Napa) red,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/wines\/ken-deis-cabernet-sauvignon-napa-valley-reserve-2014.htm\">Ken Deis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 2014<\/a>, from <a href=\"https:\/\/us.nakedwines.com\/\">Naked Wines<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>We had begun the meal with sips of champagne in the parlor, 2 steps below the dining gallery\u00a0(it sounds fancy, especially since there were only the two of us, but it&#8217;s actually something we rarely indulge ourselves with).<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>breadsticks,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.mariofongo.com\/ita\/confezioni-speciali\/grissini-al-riso-nero\">Mario Fongo &#8216;Il Panate&#8217;, Grissini con farina di riso nero &#8216;Artemide&#8217;<\/a>, from\u00a0Eataly<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a split of\u00a0<span class=\"wine-info__winery\"><a class=\"link-color-alt-grey\" href=\"https:\/\/www.vivino.com\/wineries\/veuve-clicquot\" data-item-type=\"winery\">Veuve Clicquot<\/a> <\/span><span class=\"bold text-color-alt-gray wine-info__wine\">Champagne Brut Ros\u00e9<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The first course was\u00a0one of my favorites, for its pleasures\u00a0and for its ease of preparation. \u00a0Although this time I had completely forgotten to include the little bit of\u00a0of balsamic vinegar I had even set out beforehand, it was still delicious.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-10939\" src=\"http:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/sauteed_cabbage.jpg\" alt=\"sauteed_cabbage\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" \/><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>inside a large enameled cast iron pot, one chopped garlic clove from Stokes Farm, saut\u00e9ed in a tablespoon of olive oil only until golden, followed by\u00a0less than 2 teaspoons of balsamic vinegar, 6\u00a0crushed juniper berries, and roughly half of a pound of a\u00a0\u2018conehead\u2019 cabbage (also known as \u2018caraflex\u2019 or \u2018arrowhead\u2019 cabbage) from Norwich Meadows Farm, very finely sliced after the triangular core had been removed and set aside, the cabbage seasoned with salt and pepper, the heat raised, the mix\u00a0fried for about one minute, stirring, then arranged in 2 shallow bowls\u00a0(I\u2019ve used the basic recipe a number of times as an appetizer when we have guests; it\u2019s from \u2018<a href=\"https:\/\/www.abebooks.com\/Healthy-Italian-Cooking-Stucchi-Emanuela-Stewart\/1657544334\/bd\">Healthy Italian Cooking<\/a>\u2018, by Emanuella Stucchi, a slim\u00a0\u2018stealth vegetarian&#8217; volume\u00a0I had been using for years before I realized there was absolutely no meat or fish in any of the recipes it described<\/li>\n<li>slices from\u00a0a loaf of Eric Kayser&#8217;s \u2018Pain aux C\u00e9r\u00e9ales&#8217;<\/li>\n<li>the wine was a German (Mosel) white,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/all\/selbach-riesling-incline-mosel-2015#.WGCULIE8KaM\">Selbach Incline Dry Riesling Mosel 2015<\/a>, from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chelseawinevault.com\/\">Chelsea Wine Vault<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>We didn&#8217;t make it to a cheese course.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>the music throughout the meal was WKCR streaming, its 9-day \u2018<a href=\"https:\/\/www.cc-seas.columbia.edu\/wkcr\/story\/bach-festival-2016\">Bach Festival 2016<\/a>,\u00a0specifically <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Cello_Suites_(Bach)\">the\u00a0cello suites<\/a>, with\u00a0various performers, in a program hosted by the cellist <a href=\"https:\/\/www.louise-dubin.com\/\">Louise Dubin<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I could easily get used to this. &nbsp; Venison has always been\u00a0one of my favorite entr\u00e9es, but I&#8217;m becoming more and more comfortable with preparing it at home, and I&#8217;m really enjoying the process of selecting it from some of my\u00a0favorite butchers. This time I picked a\u00a0fresh venison &#8216;shortloin&#8217; from Frank (the game specialist brother) &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10937","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-meals-at-home"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10937","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10937"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10937\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10937"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10937"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/food.hoggardwagner.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10937"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}