Search for applesauce - 3 results found

smoked pork chop, leek; red cabbage; cress; apple sauce

Kassler_red_cabbage_cress

both German, and not so German

 

The smoked pork chops were German, but the sauce was not so much; the red cabbage was German, but the simple recipe was less so (at least in my own experience); the plain cress could have been German, but then it would have been Salat, and probably accompanied by a little fresh tomato; the applesauce actually was pretty German, but if it really were German, there would have been much more of it.

 

  • a small amount of real lard (which had earlier been used in cooking veal chops and duck breast, in succession, strained, then frozen) heated inside an oval, low-sided enameled cast iron pan, two sliced small, scallion-size leeks, white portions only, the green reserved, from Lucky Dog Organic Farm (they were still growing in the open air in December!) swirled around in it, two smoked loin pork chops from Millport Dairy added, the pan covered with tin foil and kept above a very low flame (just enough to warm the chops through, as they were already fully-cooked), turning the meat once, then, near the end of the cooking time, the leek green parts set aside earlier, now also sliced, added, the pork removed, plated, brushed with garlic oregano jelly from Berkshire Berries, then covered with both the leek sections
  • a little more lard, using the same source as in the above description of cooking the smoked park chops, heated to medium-high heat in an enameled cast iron pan, two very small red cabbages from Tamarack Hollow Farm, finely-sliced, and one medium roughly-chopped shallot from John D. Madura Farm added and cooked, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage had softened slightly (about 10 minutes), water added throughout, as necessary, after which some salt was added and a little lemon juice, local apple cider vinegar from Face Farm, and a sprinkling of freshly-ground black pepper, the heat then reduced and the mixture cooked 5 or 10 minutes more, or until the cabbage was wilted and the shallots softened, and when done, a few tablespoons of raisins and some red current jelly added and stirred into the pan
  • red watercress from Max Fish Hatchery, washed and drain-dried, but undressed
  • a very small amount of applesauce left over from an earlier meal
  • the wine was an Austrian (Wachau) white, Winzer Krems Grüner Veltliner Kremser Sandgrube 2014 [and this is Winzer Krems, in all of its miscellany*]
  • the music was chamber music of Roberto Gerhard

 

* A video work, ‘Hands on Tables‘, by Brazilian artist Georgia Creimer is in permanent installation at the winery

duck breast; white sweet potato; red cabbage: arugula

duck_red_cabbage_white_sweets_arugula

more colorful than I expected (particularly impressed with the Blaukraut)

 

I had intended to pick up seafood at the Greenmarket, Monday, but the fisher family was unable to make it that day. I didn’t have a backup entrée, at least nothing that wasn’t frozen, so I picked up a fresh boneless duck breast at Eataly on my way home.

The rest of the meal then just came together, some of it having shown up in earlier dinners.

  • one 12-ounce Pat LaFrieda boneless duck breast from Eataly, its fatty side scored by a very sharp knife with cross-hatching, sprinkled with a mixture of salt, ‘India Special Extra Bold’ Tellicherry peppercorns, and a bit of turbinado sugar (which had been infused in over time with a vanilla bean), the breast left standing for about an hour before it was pan-fried over medium heat with a little of the strained lard (labelled ‘Morrell Snow Cap Manteca’, from Eataly) used in an earlier meal, and finished with a drizzle of organic lemon, sprinkled with chopped thyme from Hawthorne Valley Farm, and dressed with a bit of olive oil
  • some very interesting arugula (including some purple elements) from Lani’s Farm, briefly stirred in a little warm olive oil, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a drizzle of lemon
  • a very small amount of red cabbage from Paffenroth Gardens Farm, which had remained unused in the meal with smoked trout, braised with warm olive oil, over a moderately high heat until it sizzled, covered and cooked over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until just tender, uncovered, a bit of lemon juice and crushed dry peperoncini added, seasoned with salt and pepper, and once it arrived on the plates, sprinkled with sautéed breadcrumbs left over from the orecchiette meal
  • just under a pound of white sweet potatoes from John D. Madura Farm, scrubbed, peeled, and cut into 1/2-inch slices, tossed in a bowl with olive oil, one large garlic clove from Northshire Farm, thickly-sliced, a medium-size branch of fresh rosemary from Hoeffner Farms, chopped, salt, and pepper, then spread in one layer on the surface of my faithful, well-seasoned Pampered Chef unglazed ceramic oven pan, the pieces of garlic placed on top of some of the potato to avoid burning, and roasted at 375º for about 40 minutes, or until cooked through and browned
  • the wine was a California (Calaveras) red, F. Stephen Millier Angels Reserve Red Angel 2013, from Naked Wines
  • the music was from an album, ‘Oyan‘, featuring the Azerbaijan composer Franghiz Ali-Zadeh, performed by Konstantin Manaev on cello, the composer on piano, and Alexander Matrosov on accordian

geräucherte forelle; kartoffelpuffer und apfelmus; rotkohl

smoked_trout_cabbage_latkes

This is the German-isch meal I had anticipated in the immediately previous post.  It was to be an excuse to enjoy a pretty decent riesling, and an all-too-infrequent visit to the food of the Wagner ancestral Heimat.

The wine was in fact more than pretty decent, the food as well, and das Kocherei meant more than a little Sehnsucht nach dem Rheinland.

  • one twelve-ounce smoked rainbow trout from Dave Harris’s Max Creek Hatchery in the Union Square Greenmarket, portioned for two servings, accompanied by a cream sauce, a mix of créme fraîche, a little plain yoghurt, both from Ronnybrook Farm Dairy in the Greenmarket, a little softened rich unsalted Kerrygold Irish butter from Westside Market, finely sliced scallions from John D. Madura Farm, organic lemon juice, ground white pepper, a bit of sea salt, and chopped tarragon from Stokes Farm
  • four potato pancakes (kartoffelpuffer), part of a new frozen food venture being introduced by Franca Tantillo and Brian Zuckerberg at Berried Treasures, also in the Greenmarket, defrosted, heated on top of the stove in olive oil and a little butter, and served with a simple applesauce I had cooked for half an hour late that afternoon using 4 aging and slightly bruised small apples from Berried Treasures, some Red Jacket apple cider and a smaller amount of Eve’s Cidery‘s ‘Bittersweet‘ (“naturally sparkling cider; fermented in the bottle”), both from the Greenmarket, a little turbinado sugar and a pinch of cinnamon freshly grated from a stick I keep in the spice cabinet for these special occasions
  • a red cabbage salad, arranged on a plate to the side, a somewhat loose interpretation of a Kurt Guttenbrunner recipe which I had cut out of ‘New York’ Magazine 10 years back, using part of a small cabbage from Paffenroth Gardens Farm and one aging Rhode Island Greening apple from Berried Treasures which I had been keeping in the refrigerator since early in the fall
  • the bread was a small Eric Kayser multigrain and multiseed loaf, ‘Pain aux Cereales‘; the accompanying butter (this is Germany, after all) was unsalted Kerrygold Irish butter, from Westside Market
  • the wine was a German (Nahe) riesling, from Kruger-Rumpf , Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Spätlese 2014, purchased from Flatiron Wines & Spirits
  • the music was Anton Bruckner, Symphony No.5, performed by Giuseppe Sinopoli and the Staatskapelle Dresden