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  • speck and greens; leftover emmer reginetti with cabbage

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    I hardly lifted a finger in putting this dinner onto the table. The appetizer was familiar, except for the handful of greens, and the pasta was very familiar, since we had enjoyed the first of it only last week. three ounces of thinly-sliced La Quercia Speck Americano, described by the makers as ‘applewood-smoked prosciuto’, from Whole…

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  • flounder, tomato-oregano butter; rabe with sautéed garlic

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    One of these days I’m going to get the ‘turning once’ down pat. In the meantime, the plates often end up looking a little bit rough around the edges. two flounder fillets from P.E. & D.D. Seafood, sautéed in olive oil and butter over high heat until golden brown (2-3 minutes on the first side,…

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  • roast lamb shank with a chile crust; tomato; turnips; rapini

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    (the image was shot before its rich spicy self sauce was added to the lamb)   The little roast had been marinated with a rub of toasted cumin seed and [the equivalent of] two different chile powders, so the sauce for this partial lamb shank, once it had been produced, was unbelievably rich and complex. When I…

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  • egg, tomato, sausage, greens, wild garlic, L’eKama, lovage

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    there will be a total of only two meals today   We finished the first meal of the day at 2:30. Later there will be a small half shank leg of lamb, roasted, served with some sympathetic vegetables. There will be nothing betwixt. The image above should help to explain why. I don’t know what…

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  • broiled sea perch with anchovy; roast radishes, with greens

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    red radishes   red fish   I know that only some of the red survives the cooking processes; it’s the taste that keeps me coming back. four fillets of red sea perch (a total of just over a pound) from American Seafood Company, brushed with olive oil and some chopped wild garlic from Lani’s Farm, seasoned with salt and pepper,…

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  • artichoke pasta with spring scallion, chile, cress, parmesan

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    We had just come back from a staggeringly beautiful performance of Heiner Goebbels’ production of Louis Andriessen’s ‘De Materie’, and it was about 10:30, so dinner had to be quick. I also thought that it had to be minimal (that would have seemed advisable tonight even if we had all the time in the world). Also, Barry loves…

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  • breaded swordfish, oregano, wild garlic; greens; tomatoes

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    the swordfish steak sections marinating   and on the plate with the vegetables   which included the greens from one of these radish bunches   I had intended to roast both radishes and radish greens as the vegetable for this meal, but the mild weather gave me second thoughts: I was not anxious to have the…

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  • emmer reginetti with cabbage, garlic, anchovy, chile, bay

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    a fantastic dish, and assembling it could hardly have been easier; try it!   When I manage to put together a meal as delicious – and as simple to duplicate – as this one, I want to broadcast it as well as I can. Mark Bittman’s ‘Pasta with Savoy Cabbage’ recipe is brilliant to begin with, but I…

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  • cod with mushrooms; cress with wild garlic; yellow tomato

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    ‘Pan-Seared Cod with Mushrooms’: It’s a fascinating recipe, but I have to append a bold note to my copy: ‘do not try this again unless you really do have low-sodium stock.’ I can’t say I wasn’t warned, since the instructions had made it very clear; it’s just that I haven’t yet been able to locate…

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  • lamb chop, lovage; ozettes, rosemary, wild garlic; collards

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    After a certain amount of experience in various cities – and countries – including both good and less good experience with the meats available at local farmers’ markets, I’ve come to the conclusion that the amount of satisfaction that comes from cooking any cut of meat depends very much on the excellence of the butcher. These particular two chops…

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