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  • artichoke pasta; tilefish with ramps, herbs, lemon; collards

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    Green, very green this meal was. it began with a revisit with an Italian artisanal pasta, Foglie al Carciofo (artichoke leaves), from Maestri Pastai Selection, this time using 5 ounces, dry, served with a simple sauce of chopped spring garlic from Lani’s Farm which had been heated for a couple minutes in a little olive oil along with…

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  • Kassler, ramps, garlic-oregano jelly; cabbage; collards

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    We’re almost in German lands here. six or eight ramps from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, their white portions only (the green leaves reserved), chopped and swirled around for a minute in a small amount of equal parts of bacon fat, duck fat, and butter which had been heated inside an oval copper au gratin, two smoked loin pork chops [‘Kassler‘] from…

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  • spaghetti alle vongole in bianco (spaghetti, clams), again

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    It’s almost impossible for me to go too long without craving a repeat of some version of this dish; last night it was again time for spaghetti and clams. Barry calls it comfort food. Italian-grain Afeltra spaghetti from Eataly, cooked al dente, then tossed in a large, enameled cast iron pot in which two garlic…

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  • celeriac soup; elk, cress, horseradish potatoes, celtuce

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    celery root soup with spiced maple vinegar elk steak, cress, horseradish potatoes, braised celtuce, stems and leaves   I don’t often get a chance to enjoy a meal like this, either at home or out. This is America, where ordinary folk can only enjoy genuine game if they import it from another country, and that means paying a serious premium (it’s…

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  • crab cakes on a spicy tomato salsa; bicolored ‘kalettes’

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    The crabcakes and their tomato ‘bed’ were both pretty familiar, but the greens stripped from a hybrid stalk of Brussels sprouts and kale was new. The verdict – for both the farmer and the cook – is still out on these particular greens. two crab cakes from PE & DD Seafood (the ingredients are crab,…

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  • tomato ramp frittata with greens, chiles, cheese, lovage

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    I’m not certain I can explain how I made this, so I’ll just list the ingredients and their sources. I’ve come to find that with a frittata, the thing is pretty much about the moment, and the ingredients that are more or less already within arm’s reach. The outcome is never a total disappointment, and sometimes…

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  • balsamic lamb salad; chestnut fusilli, mushroom sauce

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    The antipasto included the lamb that remained from an earlier meal, now at room temperature, more mellow and sweet than when it had just been cooked and still warm (for what it is worth, the little roast was too small to allow me to make neat thin slices, so it looks rather chopped up here).…

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  • mackerel, tomato-caper-lemon-fennel salsa; turnip greens

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    This dish has appeared here a number of times already.  Although we both like it very much as it is, this time I tried to introduce a new element. It didn’t really work. seven 2 to 3-ounce mackerel fillets from Pura Vida Seafood, washed, dried, brushed with olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, pan grilled over…

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  • meat & potatoes (grass-fed beef; spuds, market fixings)

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    I already had all the extras, but I needed the lead; I found it on Wednesday where John Stoltzfoos oversees his family’s farm stand in the Union Square Greenmarket: It was a 13-ounce grass-fed beef steak, and it was everything I had expected. one New York strip steak (13 ounces), entirely grass fed, from Millport Dairy in the Union Square…

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  • roasted squid with oregano, chili, sorrel; choy sum, garlic

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    the last bunch of flowering bok choy   I wanted the beautiful yellow flowers in this ‘Strauss‘ of yu choy sum (Brassica rapa var parachinensis, Brassica rapa var purpurea, or flowering bok choy), to be seen even after I had wilted most of the greens, so I cut them from their stems and set them aside after…

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