I assembled a simple, very inexpensive meal last night using ingredients found in the refrigerator for the first course (including sliced air-dried beef remaining from the night before, and some hard-crusted two-day-old bread). The radishes had come from the Greenmarket, and I was able to include their tops (which usually have to be tossed out unless they are very fresh) in the second course. I finished the frittata on the top of the range before we sat down to the appetizer, letting it rest for a few minutes, so I ended up serving it when it was barely warm, the flavors just coming into their own.
I had managed to minimize heat build-up in the kitchen on a warm evening. I didn’t use a recipe; the assembly of the frittata was inspired by what I had found in Union Square. It was really, really delicious, with no little thanks to the wine (an Italian rosé). The success of this simple frittata began with my being able to use some very fresh farm eggs, and was secured by the happy and delicious contest between the sweetness of the onions and the bitterness of the greens.
- thin-sliced bresaola with leaves of radicchio, both dripped with some excellent Sicilian olive oil (Omero, purchased from Cola’s, a neighborhood restaurant) and lemon, accompanied by sliced red radishes, and served with toasted Pugliese bread
- an open frittata (in a huge cast-iron pan) which began with the sauteing of sliced torpedo onions, followed by the addition of torn radish tops and red-stem dandelions, which quickly wilted, and finally a pouring of six fork-whipped Knoll Krest Farm eggs which had been mixed with some grated Pecorino, a sprinkle of red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper
- wine: a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Cantina Zaccagnini Cerasuolo rosé 2008